Sunday, March 31, 2013

How to Install Bedroom Exterior Side Door

Fig.1: Carl with all the supplies
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Caulking gun
Cordless drills with a Phillips bit
Compound saw
Drywall joint compound
Electrical cords
Latex caulking
Level 4-foot
Paint brushes, paint frames, roller cover, paint trays 
Pre-hung door 30-inches
Radial saw
Razor knife (cut sheetrock)
Reciprocating saw with 6-inch metal blade
Saw horses
Sheetrock screws 2-1/2 and 3-inch screws
Shims - composite
T-square 
Utility knife and extra blades
White Latex Primer
Wood molding (inside and outside of door) 
Wood putty

A client from Wrightwood, California called my repair service to place a new door in a servant room. This job was done with my good friend Carl who helped me do this project.

This post shows the ten steps on how to remove and replace a damaged door. 

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia; Wrightwood has an elevation of 5,935 feet (1,809 meter) and a population of 4,525. This city is a pine covered valley in the San Gabriel Mountains, the area was first developed as cattle ranches and broken up into residential in 1920. Early ski enthusiasts discovered the north facing slopes of the San Gabriel Valley. Wrightwood has evolved from a vacation community to home to over 4000 full-time residents. At nearly 6000 feet in elevation, its valley is protected by the Blue Ridge to the South.

Step 1: Enjoy the drive and bring all the tools, pre-hung door and equipment necessary to do the job. No easy hardware stores in this area so everything must be brought in by truck. Fig.1 and fig.2 shows the two plastic horses that will hold the old door and keep our tools within easy reach.
Fig.2: Two saw horses
Step 2: Remove the door by removing the hing pins. Place the door outside to be cut and disposed. Use electrical cords to supply power to the reciprocating saw that will cut the door out of its existing area. Sometimes to get the door out the door jamb need to be cut in the middle to remove them to the trash area. Fig.3 shows the door has been cut and placed in the trash can for disposal.
Fig.3 Door in trash can

Step 3: Unpacked the 30-inch pre-hung door. Remember prior to ordering the door make sure the measurement are correct. Not all warehouse stores will return a door if the measurements are incorrect. Fig.4 shows the staples being removed from the bottom of the door, the cardboard has been discarded but the information has been kept for the clients records. This door has energy credit available for income tax benefits.


Fig.4 Bottom of pre-hung door
Step 4: Use both a 2-foot and 4-level to level the door. Place the door in the doorway and use 3-inch screws with with composite wood shims to square the door in the existing doorway. A partner makes this step a good choice. Fig.5 shows the screw (3-inch screws) is by the brass hinge and another hole below on the door frame.
Fig.5 Pre-hung 
door frame


Step 5: Fig.6 through fig.8 shows that the wood putty is being applied over the screws after the door in in place.
Fig.6 Putty on 
door frame

Fig.7 Putty 
on door jamb
Fig.8 Putty 
on lock side

Step 6: Fig.9 shows the exterior door edges have had stucco applied to the external wall and the new door jamb.
Fig.9 Stucco patch 
by wood frame
Step 7: After the door is in place, it  needs to be painted with primer. The wood putty needs to be sealed. Fig.10 and fig.11 shows Carl is priming the wood putty holes. Parts needed are 2-inch paint brushes, and a paint trays. Sheetrock will use up the blades (utility knife blades) so its important to keep a good supply on hand.
Fig.10 Carl painting 
wood frame

Carl painting bottom 
of wood frame

Step 8: Fig. 12 shows Carl is working on the door threshold plate.
Fig.12 Carl and 
threshold plate
Step 9: After the door was painted we worked on placing the new wood molding. The wall had to be repaired and new wall mud (drywall joint compound), tape and sheetrock screws will be screwed using a cordless screwdriver with a Phillips bit to repair the wall. Fig.13 shows the interior molding that was cut using a compound saw to cut the 45 degree angles. Use caulking gun and latex caulking after the wood molding is on the door to seal the molding to the wall. It also give the molding a finished look. Use a razor knife to cut the sheetrock and a T-square to cut it straight. This job does not require much taping and replacing sheetrock.
Fig.13 Inside mud 
around wood molding
Step 10: Fig.14 shows the door is complete and the maid quarters private entrance door.
Fig.14 Door finished
 

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Friday, March 29, 2013

Blue Bedroom - Part 7 of 7 - How to Paint White Baseboard

Fig.1 Floor tarp,  
paint tray and rags
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
500 Watt commercial light 
BEHR Premium Plus 1-Gallon - Ultra Pure white semi-gloss 
Electrical cord
Paint brush 2-inches
Paint tarps
Paint tray
Painters tape Blue

My advertisement on the internet's "Craigslist-services offered," advertised my handyman skills. Tyler Zowat, noticed the listing and called me to come to his home in Perris, California.  This time he wanted the baseboards painted in a blue bedroom. 

This post shows the three steps to painting white baseboards in a blue bedroom.

Step 1: First purchase at The Home Depot BEHR Premium Plus 1-Gallon, Ultra Pure White Semi-Gloss paint. This is my choice of paint, but any white semi-gloss paint will work for this job. This paint has little or no odor and is the perfect choice for children bedrooms. Above right fig.1 shows the blue room has a grey tarp placed over the rug covering the floor. This will help prevent any possible problems that could occur if the paint is spilled. Its a good practice to apply painters tarp when painting. The electrical cord is to give more room to move around the 500 watt light for the paint job.
Fig.2 Gallon with 
1 1/2 inch brush
Step 2: Fig.3 and fig.4 the edges of the carpeting along the painters tarp have masking tape applied to the floor. Push the masking tape past the rug edges so the bottom of the baseboards so that the bottom edge can be painted.
Fig.3 Tape edges of carpeting
Fig.4 White painters tape
Step 3: Start to paint the baseboard, take your time and try not getting any paint on the wall. Use the blue paint tape on the wall edge, the tape will seal the area just above the baseboards. After the preparation are finished, start painting on one side and continue to the other side of the room. Give the baseboards one good paint coat. Fig. 5 through fig.8 shows the job is finished. This job takes several hours to get it done correctly. Afterwards remove the painters tape, pick up the painters tarps, clean the brushes and paint trays. Now Tyler Zowat has a completed bedroom for his family. Do not forget to hammer down the paint lids so the paint does not dry up in the container.
Fig.5 By closet 
baseboard finished
Fig.6 By hallway 
baseboards painted

Fig.7 By window 
baseboards painted



Blue Bedroom:


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Wednesday, March 27, 2013

How to Replace Bathroom Stop Valve Fill Line

Crescent
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Basin wrench 
Channel Lock® pliers
Crescent wrench®
Channel Lock Pliers
Stainless Steel Braided Faucet Supply Line: Size: 3/8" C x 1/2" FIP X 20" L

Miss Henderson called my PennySaver advertisement about water underneath her bathroom sink. The job was to replace the water line from the faucet to the stop valve underneath the bathroom vanity. This is a plumbing job, but for the beginner this is a good place to start. When you purchase the new fill line bring in the old one to the warehouse store. If your not sure what part to get ask a plumbing assistant in the store and they will help you get the right plumbing part. 

This post shows the eight steps to replace a faucet and stop valve fill line. 

Step 1: Turn off the water at the stop valve. Test that the water is turned off by turning on the sink faucet. If the water if off at the stop valve and the water is still on the faucet turn off the other stop valve. For this job the cold side fill line was being replaced.
Step 2: If the water is still leaking past the stop valve, turn off the water at the house main valve
. Usually a gate valve or a ball valve. Next, test if the water if off at the faucet and if so continue to the next step. If not the only choice is to turn off the water at the street main valve. This is difficult without a street valve tool.
Step 3: Fig.1 shows a Stainless Steel Braided Faucet Supply Line, and the size, 3/8" x 1/2" X 20-inches long. This line will cost more but because the line is made of braided stainless steel and the line will last a lifetime. These lines are much more expensive than the simple plastic line and both lines are offered at the warehouse stores. The line below was purchased at The Home Depot® for 6-dollars.
Fig.1 Fill line
Step 4: After the water is turned off, use a crescent wrench to remove the bottom nut tat sits on top of the stop valve. Fig.2 shows a bowl is placed underneath the valve so excess water can be caught from going into the cabinet and flooring.
Fig.2 Drain bowl
Step 5: Now remove the hose from the faucet. Use a basin wrench to catch the bolt, usually made of brass, and unscrew off the faucet brass stem. A basin wrench can be a little difficult to use and it will take practice to get it to work. Fig.3 shows underneath the sink and were the hose goes to the faucet.

Fig.3 New hose
Step 6: Place the new hose on the faucet and tightened using the basin wrench, next use the crescent wrench to tighten the hose on the stop valve. If you are not comfortable using a basin wrench use Channel Lock® pliers.
Fig.4 Job done
Step 7: Now turn on the water just a little crack, enough to fill the pipes but not at full pressure.
Step 8: Now test for leaks. If you find a leak, turn off the water at the stop valve and use either the crescent wrench if the leak is at the stop valve or use the basin wrench at the faucet. If not leaks turn on the stop valve all the way on. Above fig.4 shows the new braided hose in place. The water is on and Miss Henderson will not have to worry about any leaks. This job can take a hour depending on the water turn off.



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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

How to Paint Shed Wall

Fig.1 Shed wall reflects 
light into living room
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Gloves nitrile disposable
Hammer claw 
Paint stirring stick
Masking tape 
Paint tarps
Paint tray
Paint brush 1 inch, 2 inch
Paint (supplied by customer)
Paint frame
Paint roller cover
Primer latex

Mrs. Appleton noticed my work building a retaining wall. She stopped by and asked if I could paint her shed.  

This post shows the six steps to painting an exterior shed wall. 

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the shed wall was facing her living room and was reflecting the sun light into her living room. 
Step 2: Fig.2
shows the tools needed for this job. 
Fig.2 All 
tools needed
Step 3: Fig.3 shows that a painters tarp was used to protect the cement and the grass area near the shed wall. One coat of exterior white primer was painted over the white semi gloss paint before applying the light brown exterior paint provided by Mrs. Appleton.
Fig.3 
painter's tarp
Step 4: Fig.4 and fig.5 shows the edge cutting. Edge cutting is painting the edges of the shed wall because the paint roller can not do a good job or rolling near the edge.

Fig.4 Paint edges
Fig.5 Paint shed wall 
perimeter first
Step 5: Fig.6 and fig.7 shows the wall has been rolled and now a simple touch up.
Fig.6 Touch ups
Fig.7 Fill-up
Step 6: Fig.8 shows the paint can lids being hammered down to secure the paint cans. Fig.9 shows the job is finished and now the wall will not reflect as much light in her living room again.
Fig.8 Paint cans
Fig.9 Shed 
wall painted


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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

How to Replace Telephone Desk Drawer Roller

Fig.1 Damaged roller
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Drawer roller kit right side
Hand stapler 
Spray Silicone (metal roller)
Tack hammer

Doing a huge repair list in Santa Clarita for a client moving to Colorado. The telephone desk needed new rollers for the drawer to roll smoothly.

This post shows the three steps to repairing this telephone desk drawer rolling slides.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the left side of the drawer has two rollers and they are one unit. These needed to be stapled in place rather than being screwed into the wood.
Step 2: Identify the damaged part. The right side had lost its roller and the drawer was not rolling smoothly. Bring the part to the store. The part was purchased at Ace Hardware® for a few dollars.
Step 3: Fig.2 shows the new rolling assembly for this drawer.
Fig.2 Rollers

Step 3: Fig.3 shows the telephone desk drawer rolling smoothly again. Once the roller is installed a little spray of silicone on the metal roller will make a major difference. This job is done.
Fig.3 Finished

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Tuesday, March 26, 2013

How to Repair Galvanized Metal Fence Posts on a Wood Fence

Fig.1 Cap
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools: 
Galvanized carriage bolt and nut 
Galvanized Halco Chain-Link Steel Post Driver 
Galvanized chain link brace band
Galvanized metal fence post 2-3/8 in. x 2-3/8 in. x 8-ft. 
Galvanized steel chain-link fence dome cap 4-in
Galvanized steel chain-link fence wood post adapter  
Metal sledge - optional
Post level  
Quickrete 50-lbs fast setting posts concrete mix

Mr. Doubtfure hires me to help him out on his contracting business. Edward is a good friend and he allows me to sub-contract my services to his clients. The job details are quite simple. The redwood fence had 4x4 wooden posts and some had been replaced by metal fence posts.

This post shows the seven steps on how to remove a wooden post and install a galvanized metal fence post inside a wooden fence.

Step 1: Evaluate the fence, decide which metal fence post needs to be replaced. In this job some of the fence posts had rusted at the bottom of the cement and needed to be removed and replaced. 
Step 2: The kit needed to mount the metal fence post to the wooden fence. These kits were already in use when the post was replaced. The kit can can be purchase at Lowe's. The kit is a Galvanized steel chain-link fence wood post adapter.
Step 3: Fig.1 shows the galvanized steel chain-link fence dome cap needs to be on each fence post, the reason is that when it rains water will enter the pipe and slowly rot the post from the inside. Some dome caps are a little loose, drilling a self-drilling screw inside the cap perimeter will keep the cap from being stolen and prevent water from getting inside the post. This post has a diameter of 2-3/8-inch this makes it stronger in wind conditions.
Step 4: Fig.2 shows this posts are secured by a metal band, part of the band is attached to the metal bracket and the metal bolt secured the bracket. The bracket has square parts that allow the galvanized carriage bolt and nuts to secure solidly to the post.
Fig.2 Bolt and nuts
Step 5: Fig.3 shows another angle of the chain-link fence wood post adapter.
Fig.3 Wood post adapter

Step 6: So how does the post get into the ground? A Master Halco Chain-Link Steel Post Driver made of Galvanized steel, is 24-inches in length and is used for driving posts into the ground. This one was purchased at Lowe's. Think of this like a hammer nailing a nail on a wood stud, except the hammer is the post driver and the nail is the metal fence post. Fig.4 and Fig.5 shows the metal sledge and post driver can also be used, but what usually happens is that the top of the post needs to be cut because it's deformed by the slamming of the hammer on the top of the post. Fig.6 shows this post has been slammed into the earth.
Fig.4: Metal sledge

Fig.6
Post
Step 7: But what holds the fence post into the soil? Well before the post can be driven into the soil, a hole needs to be dug and Quickrete 50 lbs fast setting posts concrete mix (also purchased at Lowe's) used. Pour one bag of concrete mix into each hole where the metal fence post is going to stand. Now the job is finished. This job took me a better part of one day. Fig.7 and fig.8 shows the job is done. Now the job is finished and Edward can tell his clients that their dogs and various barn animals are safe from neighboring coyotes.

Below is a quick recapitulation for one fence post hole.


Step 1: Remove the old rotten wood post and replace it with a 2-3/8-inch metal post. 
Step 2. Remove the old cement and place it in the trash can.
Step 3: Dig a new hole.
Step 4: Ram the new fence post into the new hole.
Step 5: Place a bag of Quickrete Posts Concrete Mix into each hole.
Step 6: Level the fence post and secure it until the cement dries.
Step 7: Once the cement has dried, screw the post to the fence using the Carriage Bolt and Nut. 

Fig.7 Posts 
replaced
Fig.8 Job finished

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-