|Fig.1: Carl with all the supplies|
Supplies and Tools:
Cordless drills with a Phillips bit
Drywall joint compound
Paint brushes, paint frames, roller cover, paint trays
Pre-hung door 30-inches
Razor knife (cut sheetrock)
Reciprocating saw with 6-inch metal blade
Sheetrock screws 2-1/2 and 3-inch screws
Shims - composite
Utility knife and extra blades
White Latex Primer
Wood molding (inside and outside of door)
A client from Wrightwood, California called my repair service to place a new door in a servant room. This job was done with my good friend Carl who helped me do this project.
This post shows the ten steps on how to remove and replace a damaged door.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia; Wrightwood has an elevation of 5,935 feet (1,809 meter) and a population of 4,525. This city is a pine covered valley in the San Gabriel Mountains, the area was first developed as cattle ranches and broken up into residential in 1920. Early ski enthusiasts discovered the north facing slopes of the San Gabriel Valley. Wrightwood has evolved from a vacation community to home to over 4000 full-time residents. At nearly 6000 feet in elevation, its valley is protected by the Blue Ridge to the South.
Step 1: Enjoy the drive and bring all the tools, pre-hung door and equipment necessary to do the job. No easy hardware stores in this area so everything must be brought in by truck. Fig.1 and fig.2 shows the two plastic horses that will hold the old door and keep our tools within easy reach.
|Fig.2: Two saw horses|
|Fig.3 Door in trash can|
Step 3: Unpacked the 30-inch pre-hung door. Remember prior to ordering the door make sure the measurement are correct. Not all warehouse stores will return a door if the measurements are incorrect. Fig.4 shows the staples being removed from the bottom of the door, the cardboard has been discarded but the information has been kept for the clients records. This door has energy credit available for income tax benefits.
|Fig.4 Bottom of pre-hung door|
|Fig.5 Pre-hung |
Step 5: Fig.6 through fig.8 shows that the wood putty is being applied over the screws after the door in in place.
|Fig.6 Putty on |
|Fig.7 Putty |
on door jamb
|Fig.8 Putty |
on lock side
Step 6: Fig.9 shows the exterior door edges have had stucco applied to the external wall and the new door jamb.
|Fig.9 Stucco patch |
by wood frame
|Fig.10 Carl painting |
|Carl painting bottom |
of wood frame
Step 8: Fig. 12 shows Carl is working on the door threshold plate.
|Fig.12 Carl and |
Step 9: After the door was painted we worked on placing the new wood molding. The wall had to be repaired and new wall mud (drywall joint compound), tape and sheetrock screws will be screwed using a cordless screwdriver with a Phillips bit to repair the wall. Fig.13 shows the interior molding that was cut using a compound saw to cut the 45 degree angles. Use caulking gun and latex caulking after the wood molding is on the door to seal the molding to the wall. It also give the molding a finished look. Use a razor knife to cut the sheetrock and a T-square to cut it straight. This job does not require much taping and replacing sheetrock.
|Fig.13 Inside mud |
around wood molding
|Fig.14 Door finished|
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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-