Friday, June 28, 2013

How to Install a Bathroom Medicine Cabinet

Fig.1 Hole in wall
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Cordless screwdriver with Phillip tip
Medicine chest
Hand screwdriver with Phillip tip #2
Scissors
Sheetrock screws
Loctite® Polyseam seal Tub and Tile Adhesive Caulk White

Mrs. Black wanted to visit North Hollywood, California. She rented a home near the black Subway Line to see all the free parks and museums in the area. While in her home she noticed that she does not have a medicine cabinet. The hole was there for a new one, but the chest was gone. She left messages for her landlord, with no response. She decided to put in a new one and called my service to handle the problem.

If you are interested in what up in North Hollywood, click on either North Hollywood to get a full list of all the possible interest in the area. Each link will bring you to a different page listing where you may find great interest and lots of fun. Just like my family did when we searched for what's fun in North Hollywood. We were real surprise at the wealth of both of internet sites.

This post shows the eight steps to installing a new medicine chest into a master bathroom.

Step 1: Fig.1 above shows the hole in her bathroom with the missing medicine chest.  
Step 2: Fig.2 shows the back side of the new medicine chest.
Fig.2 New medicine chest
Step 3: Fig.3 shows the front of the medicine chest.
Fig.3 Mirror
Step 4: Fig.4
shows there are four location for wood screws two on the top and two on the bottom sides. Use a cordless screwdriver with a Phillip tip and drive the sheetrock screws to attach the box to the wood studs. Some cabinets come with the hardware and directions. Notice below the hand screwdriver is placing the first screw into the screw slot. Fig.5 shows the lower portion of the cabinet where a metal screws was mounted.
Fig.4 Placing screws
Fig.5 Bottom screw
Step 5: Fig.6 shows cutting the tip of the Tub and Tile Caulking with scissors.
Fig.6 Caulking

Step 6: Fig.7 and fig.8, shows Tub and Tile Caulking being used to seal the edges completely around the medicine chest.
Fig.7 Tub caulking
Fig.8 Squeeze tube
Step 7: Fig.9 shows the assembly of the two upper shelves.
Fig.9 Plastic Shelves
Step 8: Fig.10 shows the assembly of the bottom shelf and fig.11 shows the finished shelf.

Fig.10 Inside new chest
Fig.11 Finished cabinet

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

How to Replace a Bathroom Shower Seal on the Left-Side

Plumbers Seal Kit
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Phillip tip screwdriver - hand
Plumber's wrench 
Stem seal kit 
Screwdriver flat-tip - hand
Shower wrenches
Slip-joint pliers

Mrs. Jackson called me from the PennySaver Advertisement about a small plumbing issue in the shower. Her home had galvanized plumbing and she had major pipe breaking problem all the time.
She was saving up for a complete re-piping of her home.

This post shows the four steps to removing a shower stem and replacing the rubber seal. 

Step 1: Fig.1 shows a sit down shower and it was missing the left knob. The left shower knob stem was constantly dripping. Use a Phillip screwdriver and remove the brass screw from the stem.

Fig.1 Shower valve
Step 2: Fig.2 shows that Slip-joint pliers were used to remove the trim brass fittings. The circular brass will unscrew from the base and then the base should fall off, but if it does not just pull off the wall. The room is needed to apply the shower valve wrench

Fig.2 Shower stems
Step 3: Fig.3 shows all the tools needed to remove and replace the hot water stem seal. Top with wire are the shower valve wrench kit. The gold handle flat tip hand held screwdriver is used in combination with the shower valve wrench to help twist the wrench. The lower half of the pictures shows the valve seals kit with 12-choices, ranging on thickness, size and flat or round tops. This is a professional kit and can be purchased at Plumbing Retailers.

Fig.3 The tools
Step 4: Fig.4 shows the Plumber's wrench was used to help remove the shower stem. These are the parts that will need to be re-installed in the shower. Now the hot water shower does not leak and Mrs. Jackson is anxiously waiting for his new brass shower trim.
Fig.4 Job done



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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

How to Install a Damaged Drawer Track Guide with a Replacement Yellow Guide

Yellow drawer track guide
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Cordless screwdriver with Phillip tip
Yellow 1 1/4 drawer track guide kit

Mrs. Jane stated she picked up the vanity in a garage sale and the drawers had never worked correctly. She hired my service to fix the problem. 

This post shows the four steps in replacing a yellow drawer track guide inside a drawer.  

Step 1: Some drawer track guide used for the center rail install below, but some track rails are different colors and sizes, make sure you bring the old guide to the store to match it. Some of the drawer track Guides and each one fits a different wood or metal center slide for a vanity drawer. Brown: 1/4" X 1-1/8", Green: 1-1/8" x 5/16", Yellow: 1-1/4", Red: 3/4", Purple: 1-3/16".
Step 2: The parts for this job was obtained for a few dollars at The Home Depot. Fig.1 above shows a metal vanity track guide rail in fair condition.
Fig.1 Drawer guide
Step 3: Fig.2 shows a working drawer guide but the rail needed to be straightened. The drawer that slides had a damaged front screw and it was replaced with a wood screw.
Fig.2 Slide on metal guide
Step 4: Fig.3 shows a white original drawer track guide that need to be replaced with a yellow tract guide. Pry out the stapled old guide and install the new guide with a cordless screwdriver with a Phillip tip. When the guide is removed there may be an impression from the last track guide. Use this as a template on the drawer before installing he new track guide. The kit comes with one yellow guide, two Phillip screws and directions.
Fig.3 Track guide
Step 5: Fig.4 shows the vanity drawer front, now working. Now Mrs. Jane can put her beauty supplies in the vanity.
Fig.4 Vanity done





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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Monday, June 24, 2013

How to Maintain Your Tub Faucet Aerator

Fig.1 Front view
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Clear container
CLR® calcium lime and rust remover
Harbor Freight® slip-joint pliers
Toothbrush

Mrs. Handy lived in a recently new complex in Fontana, California. The condominium complex was only four year old and she was surprised when she noticed white specks coming out of all the tub faucet. Mrs. Handy wanted the faucet aerator cleaned like the sink faucets.

This post shows the eleven steps on maintaining a tub aerator.

Step 1: Drinking water can contain many minerals and other hazardous substances. Arrow Head® the leading bottled water has the mineral content of some of Calcium, Sodium, Potassium, Fluoride, Magnesium, Bicarbonate, Nitrate, Chloride, Copper, pH (units) Sulfate, Arsenic, Lead. The only way to remove harmful mineral is to use a filter. If you are interested in more information please click on the US EPA web site. 
Step 2: Fig.1 shows the faucet before the repairs. 
Step 3: Fig.2 shows the tub aerator and brass nut that had mineral deposit around it.
Fig.2 Tub aerator 
not cleaned
Step 4: Use Harbor Freight® slip-joint pliers and remove the faucet nut and the plastic insert. Carefully place the jaws of the slip-joint pliers around the tub faucet brass ring and slightly pull towards you. The nut will give and then use your fingers to remove the aerator from the faucet.
Harbor Freight®  
Slip-Joint Pliers
Harbor Freight®
Vice Like Grip
Step 5: Fig.3 shows the brass insert and the plastic insert has been removed. This picture shows an upside down view of the tub faucet.
Fig.3 Faucet with 
no aerator
Step 6: Fig.4 shows the clean tub faucet brass ring cleaned of water mineral.
Fig.4 Aerator 
faucet ring
Step 7: Fig.5 shows the clean tub faucet plastic insert cleaned from water minerals.
Fig.5 Side view
 of aerator 
faucet ring
Step 8: How is it done? Using CLR® Calcium Lime and Rust Remover into a clear container, soak both the brass ring and the plastic insert for several hours. Most of the mineral deposit was removed but a toothbrush helped remove the rest of the minerals. 
Step 9: After the parts of free of minerals deposits return both parts to the tub faucet. First insert the plastic insert into the brass ring. Take the brass ring and place it back into the faucet. Fig.6 and fig.7 shows the process of returning the tub faucet aerator back onto the faucet
Fig.6 Tub aerator 
placed together
Fig.7 Tub aerator 
screwed on the faucet
Step 10: Fig.8 shows the flow a good flow of water and the maintenance has been finished.

Fig.8 Good
water flow
Step 11: Fig.9 shows the completed faucet ready for use. The minerals and other chemical would have eaten the metal and the faucet would have to be replaced. Regular maintenance keep all the parts moving free and without problems.
Fig.9 Ready to use!



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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Sunday, June 23, 2013

How to Apply an Automobile Family Stickers

Fig.1 Back window
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Dry clean rags
Glass scraper
Family stickers
Windex glass cleaner
Two pairs of hands (A friend is helpful)

Mrs. H. home is located in Hollywood, California. Today, the job was to install a family sticker on the back window of her automobile.

This post shows the eight steps to install white family stickers on a SUV back window.

Step 1: Decide where the sticker will be placed. Above fig.1 above shows the back window.
Step 2: Fig.2 shows the family sticker on the white rectangular form. Now where to put the new sticker. Looks like the sticker on the left will need to be removed.
Fig.2 Sticker position

Step 3: Fig.3 shows that the sticker was going to be removed using a flat paint scraper. The sticker was so old it took a few tries to get the plastic off the glass.
Fig.3 Scrape existing stickers
Step 4: Fig.4 and fig.5 shows the glass is cleaned of any particles left over from the last decal. Plus the glass needs to be cleaned to apply the decal.
Fig.4 Windex glass cleaner
Fig.5 Now dry with a clean rag
Step 5: Fig.6 through fig.8 shows the succession of removing the white cardboard backing before applying the decal to the window.
Fig.6 Start removing on edge
Fig.7 Gently peel the backing off
Fig.8 Now peel off the entire backing
Step 6: Fig.9 through fig.11 shows the decal is positioned on the perfect area. Then the decal is pressed flat with your hands to remove any air bubbles. Finally start peeling the final plastic layer off the white decals.
Fig.9 Positioning the decal
Fig.10 Press the decal on the window
Fig.11 Start removing the last plastic piece
Step 7: Fig.12 shows to continue to peel off the plastic top piece of the decal. Remove it completely from the white decal.

Fig.12 Removing the last plastic piece
Step 8: Fig.13 shows the final job and the family is shown through these white stickers.


Fig.13 The job is finished


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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-