Saturday, February 23, 2013

How to Repair Bombay Tea Table

Fig.2 Table and leg
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Acid brush
Large rubber band
Plant wire sponge clean and wet
Titebond® wood glue

Mrs. Black is a Chef on a on the Creative Cooking Channel. She called me to have a favorite Bombay tea table repaired, someone had leaned on it the the table legs had snapped.

This post shows the nine steps to repair this mahogany English tea table. 

Step 1: Mrs. Black purchased her table at the Hollywood Bombay location, this table is not longer being sold but a similar one can be seen here. Fig.1 and above fig.2 shows the snapped leg and the table leaning against the wall. Fig.3 shows the leg by itself. 
Fig.1 Upside down
Fig.3 The broken leg
Step 2: Fig.4 shows the use Titebond® to glue the legs to the body of the table. 
Fig.4 Wood 
glue
Step 3: Fig.5 shows the two legs have the wood glue inside the table joints. 
Fig.5 Inserting 
the leg
Step 4: Fig.6 shows the glue is applied inside the column area.
Fig.6 Applying 
wood glue

Step 5: Fig.7 shows the wood joint has glue on it on all sides.
Fig.7 Applying wood 
glue to the leg slot

Step 6: Now assemble the legs together and use plant wire to help support the legs until the glue dried and the legs are strong again.  
Step 7: Fig.8 shows the use a clean wet sponge to removed the glue from the edges.
Fig.8 Remove extra 
wood glue

Step 8: Use rubber bands in coordination with plant wire to hold the legs tightly. It's difficult to do because there is no easy place to place the rubber bands. Fig.9 shows a plant wire reel which is usually green and has a green paper outer covering with a metal wire interior with allows strength when used. The rubber bands are in place to hold the body tightly against the table column.
Fig.8 Using rubber bands
Fig.9 Attaching plant wire
Step 9: Fig.11 shows the last step to screw in the table column on the table top. Wait for two days to let the glue set up then remove the rubber band, the plant wire and put the table back to use.
Fig.11 Job finished

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Thursday, February 21, 2013

How to Maintain Cherry Bar Stools

Fig.1 Bar stool
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Allen wrench
Needle nose pliers 

Mrs. H lives in Hollywood, California. Today, she called because her kitchen bar stools needed maintenance. The bar stools seemed to be listing when sat upon. Are the legs to short or loose?

This post shows the seven steps on how to tightened one pair of bar stools.

Step 1: Above fig.l shows a bar stool, determine what is wrong with the bar stool. The stool legs and the rungs were loose. What kind of screws are being used? This stool needed an Allen wrench to tighten all eight screws. 
Step 2: Take the bar stool and move it to ta flat surface, a table or even the floor will work fine. 
Step 3: Fig.2 shows a kitchen counter was used to work on the stools.

Fig.2 Upside down

Step 4: Fig.3 shows below a bar stool that had a Safety Checklist underneath the seat with a detailed description of how to use the stool. Once read it explained the way not to use the stool. 
Fig.3 Safety Directions
Step 5: Fig.4 shows the bar stool leg screws were loose from the wood leg guard. These loose screws allowed the legs to be stable but this time someone climbing on them could have hurt themselves.
Fig.4 Allen screw
Step 6: Fig.5 shows a single Allen wrench that will be used to tightened the four leg screws.
Fig.6 Allen wrench 
tightened Allen screw
Step 7: Fig.6 shows the Allen wrench is used to  tightened the screws on each leg. This was done four time because there are four legs at the base of the seat and four times on the two rungs. 
Fig.5

Step 8: There are two rungs on each stool. The rungs are located below the seat near the floor. They help keep the legs in their place. Each rung was tightened using the Allen Wrench. Fig.7 shows Needle Nose Pliers being used to remove all the wood plugs. These wood plugs hides the Allen screw that supports the bar stool leg.

Fig.7
Step 9: Fig.8 shows the rung being tightened using a Allen wrench kit with handle for more torque.

Fig.8
Step 10: Fig.9 shows that the wood plug were put back into the screw holes.

Fig.9
Step 11: There were two stools in her kitchen, this post shows only one bar stool being maintained but both stools were repaired. Now she can use her kitchen stools with any worry that friends and family can fall off the stools.   
Step 12: Fig.10 shows the reason why the kitchen stools need to be secured. Below a good friend is working in the kitchen standing on the bar stool now safe.
Fig.10

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Sunday, February 17, 2013

How to Clean Behind a Refrigerator

Fig.1 Dust and hairs on grill
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools: 
Bucket with soap and water 
Clean mop 
Dusk mask (If sensitive to dust)
Nitrile glove or cleaning gloves 
Vacuum cleaner with brush
Shop vacuum with brush

Mrs. Handy had noticed that her refrigerator was making noises. The GE® refrigerator was pulled out by its wheels.

This post shows the four steps to removing the dust and dirt on the walls, floors and refrigerator.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the dust all over the back cardboard grill on the refrigerator.
Step 2: Fig.2 and fig.3 shows the dust on the floor and the baseboards. When the refrigerator get hot it sucks up like a magnet all the dust and dirt in the kitchen. Notice the decorative pattern on walls, baseboards and cabinets.
Fig.2 Dust on floor
Fig.3 Dust on baseboards
Note: Unfortunately this is not useful, to work efficiently the refrigerator needs not to have the dust and dirt. The dust will insulates in internal parts, this will make the refrigerator work harder. Dirt and dust will shorten the life of the refrigerator. 

Step 2: Below use a vacuum cleaner or use a shop vacuum to removed the dust off the refrigerator cardboard grill. Also remove the decorative dust webs off the baseboards and the refrigerator cabinet.

Shop Vacuum

Vacuum
Step 3: Fig.4 shows the floor and the cabinet has been vacuumed now it's time to wash the floor. Use a standard sponge mop and soap with water.
Fig.4 Wash floor

Step 4: The job is done, now push back the refrigerator in its cabinet. Now Mrs. Handy can enjoy her refrigerator without all those strange noises. Today refrigerator cost in the thousands of dollars so it make sense to do the maintenance and save as much money as possible. Maintenance should be done every six months especially if the refrigerator is located near an exterior door.

Clip-art-cleaning-491647 vacuum clip art and the clip-art-cleaning-777894
vac was obtained from PicGifs.com. If you are interested in these clip art please visit this informative art site.

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How to Adjust Side Door Handle

Fig.1 Inside door handle
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Phillips screwdriver

A local resident asked me how to repair their side door knob. The door handle was very loose and needed to be tightened.

This post shows the four steps to repairing this problem. 

Step 1: Above fig.1 shows the door knob, look at the door knob and determine the problem. 
Step 2: In this job the door handle uses Phillips machine screws they are easy to adjust. Below fig.2 shows the top of the door handle is loose at the top.
Fig.2 Door handle
Step 3: Fig.3 shows the use a Phillips screwdriver to tightened the handle screw snug. Make sure the lock can still move, turn or push the door handle up and down. It's easy to over tightened these screws and this can cause the damage the lock parts.
Fig.3 Tightened
Step 4: After the handle is tightened against the door, just do a general check of the frame plate to make sure its secured to the wood frame. Fig.4 shows checking the latch plate to make sure the door strike fits correctly. This job is a regular maintenance on the home, and must be done every three months. Now the resident will feel safe in their home and they know how to secure their front door. 
Fig.4 Safe and secure

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

How to Replace Brass Door Hinges

Fig.1 Damage hinge
Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Brass hinges
Cordless drill with Phillips bit
Electrical cord 50 ft.
Hammer with rubber grip 
Level
Primer-white latex
Porter-Cable Router Hinge Template
Porter-Cable Router
Utility Knife - retractable with extra blades
Screwdriver-long  flat tip
Wood chips
Wood putty

Eric Montoya noticed my advertisement in the PennySaverUSA and called me to come to his home in Modesto California. He had a beautiful home and a guesthouses in the back yard. The last tenant had done some strange remodeling and the doors would not close.

This post shows the fifteen steps to repair door hinges and make the door functional again.

Step 1: Identify the problem, is the door listing? Are the door hinges placed correctly? Is the door placed on backwards? Look for problems, look at the door frame is it bowed or damaged? Why is the door not closing? Look at the door hardware, is it protruding or sticking out, instead of retracting. Basically you look at the overall door and determine what needs to be done. In this job the door hinges were not aligned and the top and bottom hinge were misaligned. So the door would not close. Because of this misalignment, the door hinges were damaged beyond repair. A metal door hinge is a type of  bearing that connects two solid objects, like a door and a wood frame. 

Step 2: Fig.1 shows the door hinge is not in the correct position making it impossible to close the door.
Step 3: Fig.2 shows the door pins are placed correctly, but the hinges are so misaligned that they do not line up. The solution is to replace both door hinges on the frame and the wood door.
Fig.2 Hinges
Step 4: Fig.3 shows a hammer pulling the door pin out of the door hinge. Fig.4 shows a flat tip screwdriver with the hammer will aid removing a damaged door hinge pin.
Fig.3 Pull out hinge pin
Fig.4 Screwdriver
Step 5: Fig.5 shows the removal of the hinges' screws. 
Fig.5 Painted 
screws
Step 6: Before the metal hinges can be removed from the door, fig.6 shows the use a utility knife to cut the paint away from the door hinge. All the door hinges need to be cut away because years of paint have held the metal hinge plate to the door.
Fig.6 Razor knife
Step 7: Fig.7 shows the hinge being removed, notice that the paint is not peeling off the door frame. Using a utility knife to cut the paint prevents it from being ripped off the door frame. Only the damaged door hinge is removed from the door frame.
Fig.7 Pulling off hinge
Step 8: Fig.8 shows the door must be removed from the door frame and placed the door on the floor. The next step is the same as on the door frame. Use the utility knife to cut away the door hinge, remove the wood screws and pull out the door pin form its resting place. Notice the brass hinges which comes with #9 brass screws. It is important to use these screws which can carry the torque of the door, and fits properly in the holes on the hinge plates.
Fig.8 Hinge on door
Fig.9 New hinges
Step 9: The door hinges need to be moved to another location on the door, because the door mortise was damaged and the wood was split. The solution is to move the door hinge mortise down the door to fresh wood. Fig.10 shows the Porter Cable Door mortise kit all ready for the Porter Cable Router to make a new mortise for the new door hinge.  This router needed an electrical cord to run it, make sure the power is available or use a cordless router.
Fig.10 Router template
Step 10: Fig.11 shows the Porter Cable Router in place within the door mortise kit, the router will cut through the wood and create a new place for the brass hinge. It would have been easier to just replace the door, but this door was mahogany fire rated 60 minute solid wood door that could easily cost over a thousand dollars. It was determined that the door could be saved by moving the door hinges on the door and the frame. 
Fig.11 Router and template
Fig.12 shows the new mortise has been drilled by the Now the door is ready to hang on the frame.
Fig.12 Old mortise
Step 12: Fig.13 shows a utility knife cutting thin wood chips for the door frame hinge mortise screw holes. The hinge screw holes have been compromised and the wood pieces will give the wood screw something to catch on thus making the hole work again.
Fig.13 Wood chips
Step 13: Fig.14 and fig.15 shows how the brass hinges are mounted on the door frame. Fig.14 shows a torpedo level was used to make sure the hinge is level with the door. Fig.15 shows the wood chips have been inserted into the holes ready to place the brass screws.
Fig.14 Level
Fig.15 Fill hole 
with wood chips
Fig.16 shows the wood screws are being screwed in the bottom door hinge by a cordless drill with Phillips bit. The cordless driver gives the brass screws a tighter fit, almost better then doing it with a hand-held screwdriver.
Fig.16 Placing new hinge
Fig.17 shows both sides of the door hinge have been screwed in, you can see the mortise has been changed to accommodate the new brass hinge. Before the job is done, those depressions need to be filled with Wood Putty and painted with white primer to match the door frame.
Fig.17 New hinge
Step 16:
Now that the door hinges are on the door, it's time to see if the door closes. Fig.19 and fig.20 shows that the door is closed with the new hinges installed. Now Mr.
Montoya can rent his guest bedroom and secure his belongings.
Fig.18 New pin
Fig.19 Job finished

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-