Showing posts with label blades. Show all posts
Showing posts with label blades. Show all posts

Monday, April 6, 2015

How to Repair Kitchen Nook Wall - Part 5 of 5 - Applying Wallpaper

Fig.1 Dining room walls damages
Left, middle and right wall repair
By Gary Boutin
 
Supplies and Tools: 
Gloves
Razor knife and extra blades
Sponge yellow
Tarps cotton 9 ft. x 12 ft.
Wallpaper adhesive (Kitchen and bath)

A client in Santa Clarita, California were selling their home and moving to Colorado. Their Realtor checked each room of their home and noticed a repair that needed  to be addressed immediately. This job was to repair the kitchen nook dining room wallpaper. Two kitchen windows had bad rubber seals and had completely dried up. Sprinkler water had passed the rubber seal creating the damages on the kitchen walls. The windows were replaced by the time the wall was finished.

This post shows the four steps showing the damages to this kitchen nook wall.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the kitchen nook walls that needed repair. 
Step 2: Fig.2 and fig.3 shows Kitchen & Bath Wallpaper Adhesive to reapply the kitchen nook wallpaper to the wall.
Fig.2 Wallpaper adhesive

Fig.3 Wallpaper instructions
Step 2: Fig.4 and fig.5 shows the application of wallpaper adhesive so the old wallpaper can be reapplied to the wall.
Fig.4 Apply water to wall
Fig.5 Paste can be seen on wall
Step 3: Fig.6 shows the right side of the wall all repaired including applying wallpaper.

Fig.6 Right side paper
Step 4: Fig.7 shows the left side of the room now finished. 
Fig.7 Job done
How To Repair a Kitchen Nook Wall:

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

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How to Install Kitchen Nook Wall - Part 3 of 5 - Remove Wet Wall

Fig.1 Dining room walls damages
Left, middle and right wall repair
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools: 
500 watt Heat lamp
Caulking white
Cordless screwdriver with many tips
Razor knife and extra blades
Scraper (2 in. 3 in. and 5 in. wall knife)
Screwdriver Flat (regular and small)
Screwdriver Phillip
Fig.2 Drywall knife
Sponge large yellow
Tarps cotton 9 ft. x 12 ft.
Trash  bag or trash can
Tool bag
Vacuum Cleaner 
Vice Grip 
Wall tape (paper)

A client in Santa Clarita, California was selling their home and moving to Colorado. Their realtor checked the kitchen nook and noticed that the dining room wallpaper was loose. She also noticed that the kitchen windows had bad rubber seals and leaked when the backyard sprinklers were sprayed on the glass windows. This needed to be repaired immediately. 

This post shows the seven steps showing the damages to this kitchen nook wall.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the kitchen nook wall that needs repair and fig.2 shows a drywall knife used to cut up the wall so it can be square for repairs.
Step 2: Fig.3 through fig.5 shows the removal of the electrical plug that was in the center damaged wall. All the fiberglass was wet and needed to dry out before the new wall panels were replaced. Fig.4 shows that a small flat tipped screwdriver was used to remove the two outlet screws.  Fig.5 shows the outlet completely out of the electrical box.
Fig.3 Wet electrical
Fig.4 Remove outlet screws
Fig.5 Pullout duplex plug
Step 3: Fig.6 shows the use of razor knife to keep the edge straight to make it easier to install the new wallboard.
Fig.6 Cut edges square
Step 4: Fig.7 shows that part of the wall was removed to half of the wood stud. This will give the new piece some support. Fig.8 shows that the middle wall on the left side was completely removed and was not repairable.
Fig.7 Cut to stud
Fig.8 Wallboard removed
Step 5: Fig.9 shows that the more the wall was looked at more of the wall was removed. Almost half the wall was so wet that it was removed and not repairable. Even the fiberglass was damaged from the leak, notice that the right side is a different color than the left side. The water damage was worst on the left side than the right side.
Fig.9 Wallboard removed
Step 6: Fig.10 and fig.11 shows that a use of the vacuum cleaner was used to remove all the loose debris (pieces) that was left inside and outside the wall. Bigger portion of the wall was placed into a trash can. The wallpaper was stripped from the wall and saved for later application.
Fig.10 Cleaning the studs
Fig.11 Vacuuming inside the wall
Step 7: Fig.12 shows the right part of the wall was repaired at the bottom and not entirely replaced. A 500 watt heat lamp was used to dry the insulation and the wall repair. Noticed all the wallpaper was moved upwards away from the repair. Now the wall is ready for its new skin.
Fig.12 Drying insulation

How To Repair a Kitchen Nook Wall:


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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-


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Sunday, February 17, 2013

How to Replace Brass Door Hinges

Fig.1 Damage hinge
Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Brass hinges
Cordless drill with Phillips bit
Electrical cord 50 ft.
Hammer with rubber grip 
Level
Primer-white latex
Porter-Cable Router Hinge Template
Porter-Cable Router
Utility Knife - retractable with extra blades
Screwdriver-long  flat tip
Wood chips
Wood putty

Eric Montoya noticed my advertisement in the PennySaverUSA and called me to come to his home in Modesto California. He had a beautiful home and a guesthouses in the back yard. The last tenant had done some strange remodeling and the doors would not close.

This post shows the fifteen steps to repair door hinges and make the door functional again.

Step 1: Identify the problem, is the door listing? Are the door hinges placed correctly? Is the door placed on backwards? Look for problems, look at the door frame is it bowed or damaged? Why is the door not closing? Look at the door hardware, is it protruding or sticking out, instead of retracting. Basically you look at the overall door and determine what needs to be done. In this job the door hinges were not aligned and the top and bottom hinge were misaligned. So the door would not close. Because of this misalignment, the door hinges were damaged beyond repair. A metal door hinge is a type of  bearing that connects two solid objects, like a door and a wood frame. 

Step 2: Fig.1 shows the door hinge is not in the correct position making it impossible to close the door.
Step 3: Fig.2 shows the door pins are placed correctly, but the hinges are so misaligned that they do not line up. The solution is to replace both door hinges on the frame and the wood door.
Fig.2 Hinges
Step 4: Fig.3 shows a hammer pulling the door pin out of the door hinge. Fig.4 shows a flat tip screwdriver with the hammer will aid removing a damaged door hinge pin.
Fig.3 Pull out hinge pin
Fig.4 Screwdriver
Step 5: Fig.5 shows the removal of the hinges' screws. 
Fig.5 Painted 
screws
Step 6: Before the metal hinges can be removed from the door, fig.6 shows the use a utility knife to cut the paint away from the door hinge. All the door hinges need to be cut away because years of paint have held the metal hinge plate to the door.
Fig.6 Razor knife
Step 7: Fig.7 shows the hinge being removed, notice that the paint is not peeling off the door frame. Using a utility knife to cut the paint prevents it from being ripped off the door frame. Only the damaged door hinge is removed from the door frame.
Fig.7 Pulling off hinge
Step 8: Fig.8 shows the door must be removed from the door frame and placed the door on the floor. The next step is the same as on the door frame. Use the utility knife to cut away the door hinge, remove the wood screws and pull out the door pin form its resting place. Notice the brass hinges which comes with #9 brass screws. It is important to use these screws which can carry the torque of the door, and fits properly in the holes on the hinge plates.
Fig.8 Hinge on door
Fig.9 New hinges
Step 9: The door hinges need to be moved to another location on the door, because the door mortise was damaged and the wood was split. The solution is to move the door hinge mortise down the door to fresh wood. Fig.10 shows the Porter Cable Door mortise kit all ready for the Porter Cable Router to make a new mortise for the new door hinge.  This router needed an electrical cord to run it, make sure the power is available or use a cordless router.
Fig.10 Router template
Step 10: Fig.11 shows the Porter Cable Router in place within the door mortise kit, the router will cut through the wood and create a new place for the brass hinge. It would have been easier to just replace the door, but this door was mahogany fire rated 60 minute solid wood door that could easily cost over a thousand dollars. It was determined that the door could be saved by moving the door hinges on the door and the frame. 
Fig.11 Router and template
Fig.12 shows the new mortise has been drilled by the Now the door is ready to hang on the frame.
Fig.12 Old mortise
Step 12: Fig.13 shows a utility knife cutting thin wood chips for the door frame hinge mortise screw holes. The hinge screw holes have been compromised and the wood pieces will give the wood screw something to catch on thus making the hole work again.
Fig.13 Wood chips
Step 13: Fig.14 and fig.15 shows how the brass hinges are mounted on the door frame. Fig.14 shows a torpedo level was used to make sure the hinge is level with the door. Fig.15 shows the wood chips have been inserted into the holes ready to place the brass screws.
Fig.14 Level
Fig.15 Fill hole 
with wood chips
Fig.16 shows the wood screws are being screwed in the bottom door hinge by a cordless drill with Phillips bit. The cordless driver gives the brass screws a tighter fit, almost better then doing it with a hand-held screwdriver.
Fig.16 Placing new hinge
Fig.17 shows both sides of the door hinge have been screwed in, you can see the mortise has been changed to accommodate the new brass hinge. Before the job is done, those depressions need to be filled with Wood Putty and painted with white primer to match the door frame.
Fig.17 New hinge
Step 16: Now that the door hinges are on the door, it's time to see if the door closes. Fig.19 and fig.20 shows that the door is closed with the new hinges installed. Now Mr. Montoya can rent his guest bedroom and secure his belongings.
Fig.18 New pin
Fig.19 Job finished
Update: DIY Advisor has New blogs check them today:

  • Cookie Alert: European Union laws requires that you know that this blog uses cookies. If you are concerned about this please click here to see how Google uses this information.

Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

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