Showing posts with label scraper. Show all posts
Showing posts with label scraper. Show all posts

Monday, August 7, 2017

How to Fit a Door into a Wet Door Jamb - Part 1 of 2 - The Tools

Fig.1 Electric Planer
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Electric Cord 50-feet
Electric Planer
Hammer
Saw Horses
Scraper
Shelf mat

Mrs. H lives in Hollywood, California. Today, the job was to shave a door that had been wet and no longer fit in his wood jamb.

This post shows the four steps on the tools used to shave the door so it can fit in its door frame.

Step 1:  Fig.1 shows the electric wood planner used to make the door smaller. Fig.2 shows a 50-foor electrical cord.
Fig.2 Electrical cord

Step 2:  Fig.3 shows two saw horses and a single stationary horse.

Fig.3 Saw Horses
Fig.4 Stationary Horse
Step 3: Fig.5 shows white rubber mat used to keep from marring the doors on the saw horses.
Fig.5 Soft rubber mat
Step 4:  Fig.6 shows a claw hammer that will be used to remove door pins.
Fig.6 Claw Hammer
How to Fit a Door into a Wet Door Jamb:
  • Part 1 of 2 - The Tools
  • Part 2 of 2 - Shaving the Door
 

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Monday, April 6, 2015

How to Install Kitchen Nook Wall - Part 3 of 5 - Remove Wet Wall

Fig.1 Dining room walls damages
Left, middle and right wall repair
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools: 
500 watt Heat lamp
Caulking white
Cordless screwdriver with many tips
Razor knife and extra blades
Scraper (2 in. 3 in. and 5 in. wall knife)
Screwdriver Flat (regular and small)
Screwdriver Phillip
Fig.2 Drywall knife
Sponge large yellow
Tarps cotton 9 ft. x 12 ft.
Trash  bag or trash can
Tool bag
Vacuum Cleaner 
Vice Grip 
Wall tape (paper)

A client in Santa Clarita, California was selling their home and moving to Colorado. Their realtor checked the kitchen nook and noticed that the dining room wallpaper was loose. She also noticed that the kitchen windows had bad rubber seals and leaked when the backyard sprinklers were sprayed on the glass windows. This needed to be repaired immediately. 

This post shows the seven steps showing the damages to this kitchen nook wall.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the kitchen nook wall that needs repair and fig.2 shows a drywall knife used to cut up the wall so it can be square for repairs.
Step 2: Fig.3 through fig.5 shows the removal of the electrical plug that was in the center damaged wall. All the fiberglass was wet and needed to dry out before the new wall panels were replaced. Fig.4 shows that a small flat tipped screwdriver was used to remove the two outlet screws.  Fig.5 shows the outlet completely out of the electrical box.
Fig.3 Wet electrical
Fig.4 Remove outlet screws
Fig.5 Pullout duplex plug
Step 3: Fig.6 shows the use of razor knife to keep the edge straight to make it easier to install the new wallboard.
Fig.6 Cut edges square
Step 4: Fig.7 shows that part of the wall was removed to half of the wood stud. This will give the new piece some support. Fig.8 shows that the middle wall on the left side was completely removed and was not repairable.
Fig.7 Cut to stud
Fig.8 Wallboard removed
Step 5: Fig.9 shows that the more the wall was looked at more of the wall was removed. Almost half the wall was so wet that it was removed and not repairable. Even the fiberglass was damaged from the leak, notice that the right side is a different color than the left side. The water damage was worst on the left side than the right side.
Fig.9 Wallboard removed
Step 6: Fig.10 and fig.11 shows that a use of the vacuum cleaner was used to remove all the loose debris (pieces) that was left inside and outside the wall. Bigger portion of the wall was placed into a trash can. The wallpaper was stripped from the wall and saved for later application.
Fig.10 Cleaning the studs
Fig.11 Vacuuming inside the wall
Step 7: Fig.12 shows the right part of the wall was repaired at the bottom and not entirely replaced. A 500 watt heat lamp was used to dry the insulation and the wall repair. Noticed all the wallpaper was moved upwards away from the repair. Now the wall is ready for its new skin.
Fig.12 Drying insulation

How To Repair a Kitchen Nook Wall:


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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-


Tuesday, January 6, 2015

How to Replace Toilet Quarter Flange

Fig.1 Fernco(™) Quarter Flange
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Cement bits
Channellocks® pliers
Heavy duty rotary hammer
Cotton painter's tarp
Crescent wrench
Fernco(™) PSF100 spanner flange 
Metal Saw
Plastic anchors 
Rubber gloves
Scraper (removing wax)
Toilet bowl hardware
Towels and sponge (remove water)
Wax seal 2-inch

A client in Santa Clarita was doing her final home check list received from a local Realtor. She noticed that the master bathroom toilet was leaking at the base of the toilet. This job needed to be repaired immediately because this home was sold. There had been a recent earthquake in the area and the toilet had jump upwards and was not seating correctly on the bathroom floor.

This post shows the eleven steps needed to repair a damaged toilet flange with a quarter flange on a metal flange. 

Step 1: Above right purchase fig.1 shows a Fernco(™) Quarter Flange that will replace the damaged half of the broken toilet flange.   
Step 2: Fig.2 shows Turn off the water stop usually located on the left side if facing the toilet. But it doesn't matter what side it on, the valve must be turned off.

Fig.2 Toilet stop valve
Step 3: Remove from the toilet the water feed line from the bottom of the toilet bowl. Fig.3 and fig.4 shows a white curled tubing coming from the stop valve follow the fill line to the bottom of the toilet bowl. Remove the plastic nut using a Channellocks® pliers
Fig.3 Toilet Fill Line
Fig.4 Fill valve connector
and
Channellocks® pliers
Step 4: Fig.5 and fig.6 shows the toilet screws on each side from the toilet base, now use a Crescent Wrench to twist off the nuts. Some models have two nuts to be removed per side.

Fig.6 Toilet screws
Step 5: Fig.7 shows the rubber gloves that needs to be used to protect the hands. The use of rubber glove will give the grip necessary to handle the toilet. Now remove as much water from the toilet bowl and the trap of the toilet and empty the water into the sink. When the toilet is laid flat it will leak all over the floor so removing as much water as possible makes the job safe. 
Fig.7 Rubber gloves
Step 6: Fig.8 shows that placing a tarp on the floor where the toilet will be turned over. This will protect the toilet and the floor from the wax seal on the bottom of the toilet.
Fig.8 Cotton painter's tarp
Step 7: Fig.9 shows a new ABS black flange not hooked up to its metal piping. Fig.10 Shows another metal flange that needs to twist on and welded to its piping. The homeowner wanted a simpler repair. Fig.1 and fig.14 shows the quarter flange that will be used in this repair. All three flanges can be purchased at warehouse store (The Home Depot) or a Plumbing store.
Step 8: Fig.11 and fig.12 shows the toilet on its side and shows a heavy duty variable speed Rotary hammer drilling around the cement near the metal flange. Click here to get information on how to drill into cement with rotary hammer.
Fig.11 Flange holes drilled
Fig.12 Drilling holes
Step 9: Fig.13 and fig.14 shows the silver metal flange has been screwed on top of the metal flange so when the toilet bolt is in position it would hold the toilet on the right side of the tile. Plastic anchors were inserted into the newly drilled holes attaching the flange. Click here for a simple and quick installation of the toilet bolts by Fluidmaster.
Fig.13
Fig.14 Flange
 Step 10: Fig.15 shows a metal saw (hacksaw) that was used to cut the toilet bolts down to the stainless steel nuts.
Fig.15 Metal saw
Step 11: Fig.16 shows the toilet is in use again and the new owners are happy that this was a quick repair. The tile had to be replaced but that was done by someone else. Turned out the tile underneath the toilet was stable and did not need replacing.

Fig.16 Toilet Finished


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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Wednesday, November 26, 2014

How to Replace Coffee Tray Damaged Bottom with White Hardboard - Part 2 of 2 - Inside Board Replaced

Fig.1 White Board 
Instructions
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools: 
Black + Decker Jig Saw 1/7 hp
Latex white Caulking
Loctite High-Performance Spray Adhesive 13.5 oz.
Parts Brush
Hand Gloves black
Husky X-Workhorse Workbench
Ryobi 18-Volt Power Caulk and Adhesive Gun
Scraper  
Spray Loctite Adhesive
Spring Clamps (2) 
Stanley Quick-Change Retractable Knife
White Hardboard Panel Board
File-Wood Flat Rasp 
Wood Chisel 2-inch  
Wood Jig Saw Blades
Wood Rasp Half Round

The coffee cup series was written in April 2014 showing how to treat a new hardwood tray into service and long lasting wear. The coffee tray was redone in October 2014 because the bottom board started to be removed by the coffee cups being stored after use. The project did not quite fail because it lasted six months and now being re-worked for future use.

This post shows the nineteen steps to replacing the bottom board with a new board whiteboard without destroying the existing wood coffee tray. This is the second part of this post.  

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the white hardboard instructions.
Step 2: Fig.2 shows the jig saws that will be used to cut the white hardboard.
Fig.2 Jig saws
Step 3: Fig.3 shows the jig saw blades that will cut the hardboard.
Fig.3 Jig saw blades
Step 4: Fig.4 shows a Black + Decker Jig Saw cutting the white hardboard.
Fig.4 First cut
Step 5: Fig.5 shows the first cut on the white hardboard. The thicker line is the newly cut line in between the jig saw.
Fig.5 Past the line
Step 6 Fig.6 shows the first cut is past the line so that when the other cut is done it wall fall into the Handyman's hands. Fig.4 shows the last cut of the white hardboard.
Fig.6 Last cut
Step 7: Fig.7 shows the alignment of the whiteboard into the coffee tray. A little tight on both sides, to little to use another saw. What to do?
Fig.7 First Placement
Step 8: Fig.8 shows the combination of flat rasp and half round wood file were used to trim the edges of the hardboard. 
Fig.8 Rasp Files
Step 9: Fig.9 shows the half round wood file filing off the hardboard edges.
Fig.9 Filing the edges
Step 10: Fig.10 shows a 2-inch Wood Chisel was used to scrape the bubbles from the bottom of the coffee tray.  
Fig.10 Wood Chisel 
Step 11: Fig.11 shows the use of a Parts Brush to remove any dust from the coffee tray.
Fig.11 Part Brush
Step 12: Fig.12 shows the Loctite High-Performance Spray Adhesive that will be used to adhere the white hardboard to the coffee tray.
Fig.12 Spray Adhesive
Step 13: Fig.13 the coffee tray is sprayed with adhesive and let dry for a few seconds.
Fig.13 Coffee Tray sprayed
Step 14: Fig.14 shows the backside of the white hardboard have been sprayed with the adhesive also do dry for a few seconds.
Fig.14 Hardboard sprayed
Step 15: Fig.15 the white hardboard panel board has been inserted inside of the coffee tray. Pushed down so the white board is attached to the backside of the coffee cup tray. Now let the adhesive dry.
Fig.15 Coffee Tray
Step 16: Fig.16 shows the coffee tray the edges needs to be sealed with white latex caulking. Insert the caulking into the (a manual caulking gun) or battery operated caulk gun.  

Fig.16 Ryobi Power Caulk/Adhesive Gun
Step 17: Fig.17 shows the white caulk on the edges of the coffee tray.  
Fig.17 Caulking applied
Step 18: Fig.18 shows a home sponge was used to remove the extra caulking on the edge of the coffee tray. This keeps it neat and better looking.
Fig.18 Sink sponge
Step 19: Fig.19 shows the job is done. This will fix the coffee tray and now we can have coffee and sugar confined to this area again.
Fig.19 Job done

How to Replace the Coffee Tray Damaged Bottom with White Hardboard:
How to Seal a Coffee Tray:

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  • Cookie Alert: European Union laws requires that you know that this blog uses cookies. If you are concerned about this please click here to see how Google uses this information.

Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-