Monday, August 21, 2017

Plumb-Away®

This is the Plumb Away Toilet kit
Fig.1 Plumb-Away®
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:

If you have a plugged toilet then use Plumb-Away®.

This post shows the five steps to use the Plumb-Away® product.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the Plumb-Away® is a aerosol drain opener that claims to open drains up in seconds.  This product works well in an emergency situation. This product is made in the United States.
Step 2: Fig.2 shows what is in the Plumb-Away® box.

This is the parts of the Plumb Away kit
Fig.2 What's in the kit?
Step 3: Fig.3 shows how to use the simple direction on the box to clear your toilet. 
Step 4: Fig.4 shows the Plumb-Away® that will be inserted into your plugged toilet.

The plunger helps the compressed can
Fig.3 Directions
Great tool for everyone who wants it done now
Fig.4 Tube
Step 5: The Plumb-Away® box contains the following. 1-Plumb-Away®canister, power cap and seal, universal adapter, and extension handle. This unit can open toilet very effectively.



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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Tuesday, August 15, 2017

An Impact Driver With a Phillips Bit

Manual Impact Driver
Fig.1 Impact kit
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Hammer
Heavy gloves
Impact screwdriver

George wanted a pre-hung door, but before that could be accomplished the garage threshold plate needed to be removed. The new metal door was to long to accommodate the old threshold plate. 

This post shows the seven steps to use an impact driver.

An impact driver is a spring-loaded mechanism that moves a wedge and cam built inside it. When hit by a hammer, the blow causes the internal chuck to turn just a little bit thus moving the screw. To use a manual impact driver please follow the steps below. You need to have good hand strength and be comfortable swinging a hammer with the other hand. It's a one person job, but it can be difficult depending on how badly the screw is stuck.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows a manual impact drivers resemble a fat screwdriver with a chuck at one end and in this job a Phillips bit.
Step 2: Fig.2 shows the safety glasses and heavy gloves needed to protect your hands.

Wear plasstic protective glasses
Safety glasses
These are chemical gloves

Fig.2 Gloves
Step 3: Fig.3 shows grasping the impact driver firmly with your dominant hand.
Hold the impact driver with your hands before hitting with a hammer
Fig.3 Impact driver
 removing Phillips screw
Step 4: Push downward on the stuck screw, at the same time turn the impact driver counterclockwise to loosen.
Turn the imapect driver with your hand as the screw moves
Fig.4 Turn as the impact 
driver is hit by the hammer
Step 5: Fig.5 shows the hammer that will hit the top of the impact driver. Sometimes a metal sledge can sometime work better.
This is a fiberglass claw hammer
Fig.5 Claw hammer
Step 6: Continue hitting the impact driver while applying pressure and turning with your hands until the bolt is loosened.
Step 7: Fig.6 shows the threshold plate has been removed from the cement garage floor.
Now the threshold plate has been removed
Fig.6 Threshold plate
How to use a manual impact driver:
  • Wear heavy leather gloves to protect your hands.
  • Grasp the impact driver firmly with your dominant hand.
  • Push downward on the stuck screw, at the same time turn the impact driver counterclockwise to loosen.
  • Hit the top of the impact driver with a hammer.
  • Continue hitting the impact driver while applying pressure and turning with your hands until the bolt is loosened.


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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Friday, August 11, 2017

Vaughan 20520 Carpenters Half Hatchet Axe

This is an axe wedge that helps keep the axe blade on the handle
Axe metal wedge
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
 

Carpenters Half Hatchet axe Vaughan 20520
Metal wedge 

This month the Carpenters half hatchet axe is the being featured in four steps.Axes serve three purposes, cutting, splitting and shaping. The carpenter's axe has a slightly larger than a hatchet and used in traditional woodwork, joinery and log-building. The poll (butt) is designed for use as a hammer. These hatchets has a groove for pulling nails.

Step 1: Fig.1
above shows the parts of the axe. The axe has two components, the head,and the shaft. The head is bounded by the bit (or blade) at one end, and the poll (or butt) at the other.

Fig.1 Carpenters Half Hatchet Features
Step 2: Fig.2 shows the parts of the axe. The top corner of the metal bit where the cutting edge begins is called the toe, and the bottom corner is known as the heel. Either side of the metal head is called the cheek. The hole where the wooden haft is mounted is called the eye

Fig.2 Metal parts
Step 3: Fig.3 shows the part of the metal bit that descends below the rest of the axe-head is called the beard. The axe haft is sometimes called the handle, is made of a hickory. The shoulder is where the head mounts onto the haft, and the haft is held in place by wooden wedges.
Fig.3 Metal bit
Step 4: Fig.4 shows the belly of the haft (wood handle) is the longest part, and the throat is where it curves sharply down into to the short grip, just before end of the haft, which is known as the knob.

Fig.4 Wooden handle


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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Monday, August 7, 2017

How to Fit a Door into a Wet Door Jamb - Part 1 of 2 - The Tools

Fig.1 Electric Planer
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Electric Cord 50-feet
Electric Planer
Hammer
Saw Horses
Scraper
Shelf mat

Mrs. H lives in Hollywood, California. Today, the job was to shave a door that had been wet and no longer fit in his wood jamb.

This post shows the four steps on the tools used to shave the door so it can fit in its door frame.

Step 1:  Fig.1 shows the electric wood planner used to make the door smaller. Fig.2 shows a 50-foor electrical cord.
Fig.2 Electrical cord

Step 2:  Fig.3 shows two saw horses and a single stationary horse.

Fig.3 Saw Horses
Fig.4 Stationary Horse
Step 3: Fig.5 shows white rubber mat used to keep from marring the doors on the saw horses.
Fig.5 Soft rubber mat
Step 4:  Fig.6 shows a claw hammer that will be used to remove door pins.
Fig.6 Claw Hammer
How to Fit a Door into a Wet Door Jamb:
  • Part 1 of 2 - The Tools
  • Part 2 of 2 - Shaving the Door
 

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Saturday, August 5, 2017

How to Mix Olympic® Semi-Gloss with Glidden® Interior Flat Paint

Fig.1 Painter's Cap

By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Cordless drill with hex driver
Makita Hex bit holder
Olympic Premium Interior Latex semi-gloss paint
Paint bucket - 5 gallons
Paint mixing paddle with hex head

This job required mixing Olympic® 1-gallon Semi-Gloss paint into 2-gallons of Glidden® Interior flat paint.

This post shows the seven steps to mixing these paints.

Step 1: Above right fig.1 painter's cap. Below middle fig.2 and fig.3 shows the mixture of Olympic® 1-gallon semi-gloss paint in 2-gallons of Glidden® Interior flat paint.
 Fig.2 Semi-gloss paint
Fig.3 Glidden® 
Interior Flat Paint
 Step 2: Fig.4 shows the color mixing chart from Home Depot of Glidden® paint. Fig.5 shows the  paint is flat mate base 1.
Fig.4 The Home Depot 
paint numbers
Fig.5 Flat Base 1 paint
Step 3: Fig.6 shows the three paint cans. The two flat paint was ordered and delivered. We decided to mix flat paint with semi-gloss to give the wall more durability.
Fig.6 Paint cans
Step 4: Fig.7 shows a Ryobi 12 volt cordless drill with a hex driver that is the same size as the paint mixing paddle. Fig.8 shows the Makita Hex hex bit holder.

Fig.7 Ryobi 12 volt 
cordless drill
Fig.8 Makita Hex bit holder
Step 5: Fig.9 shows the cordless drill, the hex head driver and the paint paddle (normally used for mixing joint compound) mixed the first can of paint in the 5-gallon paint bucket. Fig.10 shows the the cans of paint into the paint bucket.
Fig.9 Ryobi 12 volt cordless
drill with Paint  Paddle
Fig.10 Paint Paddle 
Mixing paint
Step 6: Fig.11 shows the paint is all mixed together. Once the paint does not have any streaks than the paint is well mixed. Fig.12 shows the paint on the wall drying.
Fig.11 Nice smooth paint
Fig.12 Shows the 
paint drying

Step 7: Fig.13 and fig.14 shows the ceiling and the wall are painted and the job is finished.
Fig.13 painted
around door

Fig.14 Walls painted


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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Monday, July 31, 2017

How to Install Security Door Vinyl Door Sweep to Stop Flies

Fig.1 Door Seal
By Gary Boutin

Part and Supplies:
Measurement tape
Plastic door strips (6)
Scissors

Willie is a postal employee that travels 360 days a year, and has little time to work on his century old studio cottage in downtown Chino, California. Willey called my repair service for a small job. He wanted to stop the Chino flies from entering his cottage when the door was opened. Presently the flies were entering from the sides of his security door. He wanted a solution and this post addresses his problem.

This post shows the five steps on how to apply white vinyl door sweeps to a security door to stop flies from invading his cottage.

Step 1: Fig.1
through fig.4 shows the vinyl door sweeps. These can be obtained from your local warehouse store. These were purchase from The Home Depot. Fig.2 shows the application direction on how to apply this vinyl door sweep. Just cut to your door requirements and peel back the paper tape and expose the yellow glue and install it on the door. Fig.3 shows the tools needed to cut the vinyl sweep, ordinary scissors will do the job. Fig.4 shows one of the tool is a measurement tape.
Fig.2 Directions
Fig.3 Scissors, pencil and tape
Fig.4 Tape measure to size the sweeps
 Step 2: Fig.5
and fig.6 shows the existing metal framework for the security door.
Fig.5 Lock side
Fig.6 Left side
Step 3: Fig.7
through fig.14 shows the progression of installing one side of the sweeps on the metal security door frame. Fig.7 shows the top of the door. This is the first vinyl sweep that is placed into metal frame. Fig.8 and fig.9 shows the second door seal is applied at the top of the door frame.  Fig.10 and fig.11 shows the middle of the door frame and the next piece is applied. Fig.12 through fig.14 shows the bottom strip is measured and applied to the bottom of the metal security door frame.
Fig.7 Top sweep installed
Fig.8 Right door 
frame top sweep
Fig.9 top strip adhere 
to metal frame



Fig.10 Lower door 
sweep installed
Fig.11 Sweep pushed
into metal frame
Fig.12 Bottom six inches
Fig.13 New strip added
Fig.14 Bottom strip done
Step 4: Fig.17 through fig.21 shows the metal door frame that is attached to the wood frame to completion around the metal tab. Fig.17 shows the metal tab. Fig.18 and fig.19 shows
the vinyl strip that is cut to fit around the metal tab. Fig.20 and fig.21 shows the installation of the cut around the metal tab. This needed to be done six time around the door.
Fig.17 Metal door 
frame tab
Fig.18 Cutting strip
Fig.19 Cut and ready to install
Fig.20 Placing around
metal tab
Fig.21 Installing around tab
Step 5:  Fig.22 and fig.23 shows the vinyl strip have been applied to the metal door edges and to the bottom of the screen door. 
Fig.22 Vinyl trim finished
Fig.23 Door bottom trim finished

Interesting Links:



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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-