How to Clean Vertical Blinds Quickly

Fig.1 Vertical Blinds

By Gary Boutin

Tools and Supplies:
Bucket 
Electrical cord 
Gloves 
High patio wall
Ladder 4-foot
Leaf Blower 
Screwdriver Flat Tip
Flat scraper
Sponge
Soap (automobile soap)
Towel (clean) 
Vertical blinds
Water (Plus water hose)

This post shows the ten steps on the process of cleaning vertical blinds quickly and all in one hour. 

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the vertical blinds that need cleaning. Fig.2 shows the bucket filled with water, soap and a sponge. Use automobile soap it does not leave streaks on the blinds.

Fig.2 Pail with soap and sponge

Step 2: Fig.3 shows an ordinary leaf blower. This blower will be used to remove the large drops of water on the vertical blinds after they have been cleaned.

Fig.3 Leaf blower

Step 3: Fig.4 shows a blank high patio wall. This will be the shelf were the vertical blind will hand from while the cleaning takes place. The wall needs to be high enough to hang the blind but not so high so that you can not place the top of the blind over its edge.

Fig.4 Patio wall or table

Step 4: Fig.5 shows a 4-foot ladder. This is needed to reach the vertical blinds to open up the blind brackets. There is one on each side.

Fig.5 ladder 4-foot

Step 5: Fig.6 shows the use a flat tip screwdriver on both sides of the vertical blind. Fig.7 shows the vertical blind bracket is open and the blinds can be removed. Sometimes a flat scraper can open it faster than a screwdriver.

Fig.6 Screwdriver

Fig.7 Open blind bracket

Step 6: Fig.8 shows the bucket of soap is ready to be applied after the blinds are rinsed with a water hose.

Fig.8 Soap ready

Step 7: Fig.9 shows a sponge applying lots of soap and water to the blind. Fig.10 shows the soap on the blind.

Fig.9 Soap applied

Fig.10 Soap

Step 8: Fig.11, fig.12 and fig.13 shows that after the blind has been rinsed, washed and re-rinsed with a water hose. Use a leaf blower to remove the excess water.

Fig.11 Leaf Blower

Fig.12 Removing water

Fig.13 Blowing dry

Step 9: Fig.14 and fig.15 shows the gloves and dry clean towel is needed to wipe both sides of the blind.

Fig,14 Use gloves

Fig,15 Wipe dry

Step 10: Fig.16 shows that once the blind is dried to bring back the blind back to its window. Next, secure the blind bracket and attach the top decorative piece to the blind body.

Fig,16 Job done

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Blue Bedroom - Part 7 of 7 - How to Paint White Baseboard

Fig.1 Floor tarp,  
paint tray and rags

By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
500 Watt commercial light 
BEHR Premium Plus 1-Gallon - Ultra Pure white semi-gloss 
Electrical cord
Paint brush 2-inches
Paint tarps
Paint tray
Painters tape Blue

My advertisement on the internet's "Craigslist-services offered," advertised my handyman skills. Tyler Zowat, noticed the listing and called me to come to his home in Perris, California.  This time he wanted the baseboards painted in a blue bedroom. 

This post shows the three steps to painting white baseboards in a blue bedroom.

Step 1: First purchase at The Home Depot BEHR Premium Plus 1-Gallon, Ultra Pure White Semi-Gloss paint. This is my choice of paint, but any white semi-gloss paint will work for this job. This paint has little or no odor and is the perfect choice for children bedrooms. Above right fig.1 shows the blue room has a grey tarp placed over the rug covering the floor. This will help prevent any possible problems that could occur if the paint is spilled. Its a good practice to apply painters tarp when painting. The electrical cord is to give more room to move around the 500 watt light for the paint job.

Fig.2 Gallon with 
1 1/2 inch brush

Step 2: Fig.3 and fig.4 the edges of the carpeting along the painters tarp have masking tape applied to the floor. Push the masking tape past the rug edges so the bottom of the baseboards so that the bottom edge can be painted.

Fig.3 Tape edges of carpeting

Fig.4 White painters tape

Step 3: Start to paint the baseboard, take your time and try not getting any paint on the wall. Use the blue paint tape on the wall edge, the tape will seal the area just above the baseboards. After the preparation are finished, start painting on one side and continue to the other side of the room. Give the baseboards one good paint coat. Fig. 5 through fig.8 shows the job is finished. This job takes several hours to get it done correctly. Afterwards remove the painters tape, pick up the painters tarps, clean the brushes and paint trays. Now Tyler Zowat has a completed bedroom for his family. Do not forget to hammer down the paint lids so the paint does not dry up in the container.

Fig.5 By closet 
baseboard finished

Fig.6 By hallway 
baseboards painted

Fig.7 By window 
baseboards painted

Blue Bedroom:

• Part 1 of 7 - Wallpaper Border Removal 
• Part 2 of 7 - Acoustic Ceiling Removal
• Part 3 of 7 - Sanding and Priming the Ceiling
• Part 4 of 7 - Ceiling Painting
• Part 5 of 7 - How to Paint a Closet Blue
•  Part 6 of 7 - Painting the Walls Blue
•  Part 7 of 7 - How To Paint White Baseboard

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• Cookie Alert: European Union laws requires that you know that this blog uses cookies. If you are concerned about this please click here to see how Google uses this information.

Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

How to Replace Brass Door Hinges

Fig.1 Damage hinge

Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Brass hinges
Cordless drill with Phillips bit
Electrical cord 50 ft.
Hammer with rubber grip 
Level
Primer-white latex
Porter-Cable Router Hinge Template
Porter-Cable Router
Utility Knife - retractable with extra blades
Screwdriver-long  flat tip
Wood chips
Wood putty

Eric Montoya noticed my advertisement in the PennySaverUSA and called me to come to his home in Modesto California. He had a beautiful home and a guesthouses in the back yard. The last tenant had done some strange remodeling and the doors would not close.

This post shows the fifteen steps to repair door hinges and make the door functional again.

Step 1: Identify the problem, is the door listing? Are the door hinges placed correctly? Is the door placed on backwards? Look for problems, look at the door frame is it bowed or damaged? Why is the door not closing? Look at the door hardware, is it protruding or sticking out, instead of retracting. Basically you look at the overall door and determine what needs to be done. In this job the door hinges were not aligned and the top and bottom hinge were misaligned. So the door would not close. Because of this misalignment, the door hinges were damaged beyond repair. A metal door hinge is a type of  bearing that connects two solid objects, like a door and a wood frame. 

Step 2: Fig.1 shows the door hinge is not in the correct position making it impossible to close the door.
Step 3: Fig.2 shows the door pins are placed correctly, but the hinges are so misaligned that they do not line up. The solution is to replace both door hinges on the frame and the wood door.

Fig.2 Hinges

Step 4: Fig.3 shows a hammer pulling the door pin out of the door hinge. Fig.4 shows a flat tip screwdriver with the hammer will aid removing a damaged door hinge pin.

Fig.3 Pull out hinge pin

Fig.4 Screwdriver

Step 5: Fig.5 shows the removal of the hinges' screws. 

Fig.5 Painted 
screws

Step 6: Before the metal hinges can be removed from the door, fig.6 shows the use a utility knife to cut the paint away from the door hinge. All the door hinges need to be cut away because years of paint have held the metal hinge plate to the door.

Fig.6 Razor knife

Step 7: Fig.7 shows the hinge being removed, notice that the paint is not peeling off the door frame. Using a utility knife to cut the paint prevents it from being ripped off the door frame. Only the damaged door hinge is removed from the door frame.

Fig.7 Pulling off hinge

Step 8: Fig.8 shows the door must be removed from the door frame and placed the door on the floor. The next step is the same as on the door frame. Use the utility knife to cut away the door hinge, remove the wood screws and pull out the door pin form its resting place. Notice the brass hinges which comes with #9 brass screws. It is important to use these screws which can carry the torque of the door, and fits properly in the holes on the hinge plates.

Fig.8 Hinge on door

Fig.9 New hinges

Step 9: The door hinges need to be moved to another location on the door, because the door mortise was damaged and the wood was split. The solution is to move the door hinge mortise down the door to fresh wood. Fig.10 shows the Porter Cable Door mortise kit all ready for the Porter Cable Router to make a new mortise for the new door hinge.  This router needed an electrical cord to run it, make sure the power is available or use a cordless router.

Fig.10 Router template

Step 10: Fig.11 shows the Porter Cable Router in place within the door mortise kit, the router will cut through the wood and create a new place for the brass hinge. It would have been easier to just replace the door, but this door was mahogany fire rated 60 minute solid wood door that could easily cost over a thousand dollars. It was determined that the door could be saved by moving the door hinges on the door and the frame. 

Fig.11 Router and template

Fig.12 shows the new mortise has been drilled by the Now the door is ready to hang on the frame.

Fig.12 Old mortise

Step 12: Fig.13 shows a utility knife cutting thin wood chips for the door frame hinge mortise screw holes. The hinge screw holes have been compromised and the wood pieces will give the wood screw something to catch on thus making the hole work again.

Fig.13 Wood chips

Step 13: Fig.14 and fig.15 shows how the brass hinges are mounted on the door frame. Fig.14 shows a torpedo level was used to make sure the hinge is level with the door. Fig.15 shows the wood chips have been inserted into the holes ready to place the brass screws.

Fig.14 Level

Fig.15 Fill hole 
with wood chips

Fig.16 shows the wood screws are being screwed in the bottom door hinge by a cordless drill with Phillips bit. The cordless driver gives the brass screws a tighter fit, almost better then doing it with a hand-held screwdriver.

Fig.16 Placing new hinge

Fig.17 shows both sides of the door hinge have been screwed in, you can see the mortise has been changed to accommodate the new brass hinge. Before the job is done, those depressions need to be filled with Wood Putty and painted with white primer to match the door frame.

Fig.17 New hinge

Step 16: Now that the door hinges are on the door, it's time to see if the door closes. Fig.19 and fig.20 shows that the door is closed with the new hinges installed. Now Mr. Montoya can rent his guest bedroom and secure his belongings.

Fig.18 New pin

Fig.19 Job finished

Update: DIY Advisor has New blogs check them today:

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• Cookie Alert: European Union laws requires that you know that this blog uses cookies. If you are concerned about this please click here to see how Google uses this information.

Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

How to Make Kitchen Cabinet Microwave Plug Hole

Fig.1
Angle drill

By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
3/8'' Angle drill
Chuck key
Hole saw kit with 1-1/8 inches
Electrical cords

Willie is a postal employee that travels 360 days a year, and has little time to work on his century old studio cottage in downtown Chino, California. Willie called me to solve a carpentry solution in his kitchen. He had less then ten inches between the refrigerator and the custom kitchen cabinet. His goal was to create a hole into the cabinets for a microwave power cord. The problem was that the microwave was inside the cabinet, and there was no electrical outlet in that cabinet. Seems simple enough but I needed to cut two holes to get the cordage to the outlet.

This post show the five steps to make circular holes.

Step 1: Above fig.1 shows the drill, not an ordinary electric drill there is little space to get a hole under cabinets, this requires a electric powered 3/8'' angle drill with 1-1/8 inches hole saw. With the hole saw attached to the drill using a chuck key to grab the hole saw in its jar measures just under 4 inches, plenty of room to drill into the cabinet from the bottom. An extension cord was used to supply ample power to the angle drill. 
Step 2: Fig.2 shows the end of the microwave plug as a guide to choose which hole saw. Willie wanted the hole just a bit bigger to get the plug in and out.

Fig.2 Close to the same size

Step 3: Fig.3 shows drilling from the bottom helped me to place the hole just two inches from the cabinet. 

Fig.3 Hole underneath

Step 4: Fig.4 show the hole saw plug that came out of the cabinet.

Fig.4 Plug in saw

Step 5: Fig.5 shows the hole that Willie wanted for his microwave.

Fig.5 The hole is done

DIY Advisor Blogs:

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• Cookie Alert: European Union laws requires that you know that this blog uses cookies. If you are concerned about this please click here to see how Google uses this information.

Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-