How to Adjust Side Door Handle

Fig.1 Inside door handle

By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Phillips screwdriver

A local resident asked me how to repair their side door knob. The door handle was very loose and needed to be tightened.

This post shows the four steps to repairing this problem. 

Step 1: Above fig.1 shows the door knob, look at the door knob and determine the problem. 
Step 2: In this job the door handle uses Phillips machine screws they are easy to adjust. Below fig.2 shows the top of the door handle is loose at the top.

Fig.2 Door handle

Step 3: Fig.3 shows the use a Phillips screwdriver to tightened the handle screw snug. Make sure the lock can still move, turn or push the door handle up and down. It's easy to over tightened these screws and this can cause the damage the lock parts.

Fig.3 Tightened

Step 4: After the handle is tightened against the door, just do a general check of the frame plate to make sure its secured to the wood frame. Fig.4 shows checking the latch plate to make sure the door strike fits correctly. This job is a regular maintenance on the home, and must be done every three months. Now the resident will feel safe in their home and they know how to secure their front door. 

Fig.4 Safe and secure

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Closet Door Knob Installed

Fig.1 The missing knob

By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Phillips screwdriver
Tape measure
Door template (provided)

Our closet door are in good shape, they close and stay close but for the Lewis clan their door would not stay closed. This post shows a simple solution to this problem.

This post shows the five steps on how to replace a simple closet door knob.

Step 1: Closet door knobs are not drilled out like a regular door knob. The closet knob are also called a single dummy, because the knob has no moving parts and this knob requires very little maintenance.

Note: Do not forget to use a tape measure to measure your door, some knob kits only take specific door measurements, for example 1-3/8 to 1-3/4-inch thick doors.

Step 2: Purchase a closet handle kit at any hardware store. You can find many different types, for example some are gold, satin, chrome, decorated exterior. Some have a ball handle, or lever handles and come in many metal colors and styles. The one below is a flat top gold handle and the most common type of handles available. The kit comes with one single handle, a back plate were the one pair of gold wood screws hold the plate to the door, and a pressure kit for the door jamb. 
Step 3: Remove the handle and its parts from the packaging.  If the door had a previous door knob use the same screw holes, if not use the template located at the back of the door knob packaging. Fig.1 shows the door knob template is included in the closet package, use it and apply it to the door, it will guide were the door knob screws need to be aligned and leave enough room for fingers to open the door, the template will also guide the knob just away from the door edge.
Step 4: Attach the back plate to the door, using a Phillips screwdriver fig.2 and fig.3.

Fig.2 Handle

Fig.3 Screws finished

Step 5: Once the handle is attached fig.4 to the door the next step is to attach the door frame hardware. Now insert the frame hardware that allows the door to cinch against the door frame to keep it closed which prevents the door from opening. The hardware is usually placed parallel to the door handle. The hardware will take two screws that apply pressure against the door edge. Use the same Phillips screwdriver to drive the two screws into the door frame. Test the door by opening and closing the door and adjust the frame catch.

Fig.4 Job done

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Bathroom Limestone - Part 1 of 3 - Vinyl Floor Removed and Sub Floor Replaced

All supplies

By Gary Boutin 

Supplies and Tools:

Acrylic caulking latex 

Caulk gun

Circular saw

Cordless drill 12 and 18-volt

3 3/8-inch cordless circular saw

Deck screws

Douglas fir stud 2x4x8 

Fiberglass R30

Mechanics gloves

Oriented strand boards (OSB) 19/32-inch
Phillips screwdriver 

Reciprocating blades 

Vacuum 

This job is located in the City of Pomona, a multi-story condominium in a beautiful rural setting with mature oak trees and a well established community.

The post shows the thirteen steps to the removal and replacement of a hallway bathroom floor. 

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the project was started by the homeowner who removed the vanity, the plumbing except the stop valves, ABS drain line, and the floor around the toilet.

Fig.1 Only sink lines are left

Step 2: Fig.2 and fig.3 shows the old linoleum floor. The reason the floor has been removed is that the old floor had holes in it and was leaking water into the garage.

Fig.2 Linoleum

Fig.3 Floor holes

Step 3: Fig.4 shows that the entire linoleum floor needed removal including around the toilet.

Fig.4 Vinyl cover removed

Step 4: Fig.5 shows Carl cutting the old damaged flooring using a 3-3/8-inch cordless circular saw. 

Fig.5 Cut plywood out

Step 5: Fig.6 shows that we completed removal of the floor, and now we installed Douglas Fir 2x4 wood edges to hang the new floor on. The old floor stopped at the wall, but had no wood edges.

Fig.6 Additional bracing

Step 6: Fig.7 shows the circular saw used to cut the floor edges to be fitted on the floor.  

Fig.7 Floor removed

Step 7: Fig.8 shows the removed wet fiberglass and vacuumed the area of dirt, dust and wood chips.

Fig.8 Clean up the mess

Step 8: Fig.9 shows that we replaced the damaged fiberglass. 

Fig.9 Replace the 
wet fiberglass

Step 9: Fig.10 shows the bathroom fiberglass was replaced in the floor area.

Fig.10 Installing 
new fiberglass

Step 10: Fig.10 shows Carl starting to measure the area for a new side support.

Fig.10 Measuring the floor

Step 11: Fig.11 shows the cutting of the OSB particle board.

Fig.11 OSB board trimmed

Step 12: Fig.12 shows that the floor with the new sub-floor installed. Carl is using a cordless drill to screw in deck screws that will never rust.

			Fig.15 Screwing the floor

Step 13: Fig.16 shows Carl has caulked the floor edges with silicone. The first part of this job is now completed.

Fig.16 Caulking to 
the floor gaps

Bathroom Limestone Tiling:

• Part 1 of 3 - Vinyl Floor Removed and Sub Floor
• Part 2 of 3 - Durock® Cement Board Installation
• Part 3 of 3 - Limestone Tiled and Finishing

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-