Showing posts with label circular saw. Show all posts
Showing posts with label circular saw. Show all posts

Monday, October 19, 2015

How to Install Plastic Outer Corner Gutter

Fig.1 The job
By Gary Boutin

Tools and Supplies:
Circular saw 5 1/4 inch blade
Caulking gun, Caulking latex
Cordless screwdrivers

Knife flat
BEHR Premium Plus Ultra
Fig.2 Finished 
gutter system
Paint brush
Propane tank with striker
Screws 4-inch
Tape measure
Wood block 2x6 Douglas Fir

Wood glue 

Amerimax Home Products Supplies:  

Traditional Vinyl Gutter 10 ft. Brown
Vinyl K-Style Joiner 10 ft. Brown
Vinyl Hidden Hangar Brown
Outside corner Brown  
Downspout plastic clips Brown 
Drop outlet 2 in. x 3 in. Brown 
Vinyl Gutter gutter silicone - Clear

Mr. Jones had done most of the job of installing Amerimax Home Products vinyl gutters that he purchased from The Home Depot. He had pulled his back on the final corner and was not able to finish the job. He hired my service to finish the work. Fig.1 above shows the work that needs to be done and it's the last corner before the job was finished. Fig.2 shows the work that was done and fig.3 shows a side view that the gutter need to be cut and fitted into the outer corner. But the real problem was Mr. Jones wanted gutter placed on a side of the house that gutters are not placed. His reasoning was that when it rained a sheet of water fell over that side of the roof.

This post shows the seven steps on how the outer corner was installed and how we solved the problem of having two different heights. The roof was not the same heights as the garage roof line. Thus we could not attach them together. A drop outlet was installed on the higher gutter so when the rain water flows off the roof it could be contained inside the vinyl gutter system. 

Step 1: Cutting the gutter to fit the outer corner and fig.4 shows the side of the house that will need to have a gutter placed. 
Fig.3 Side view of 
corners repair
Fig.4 Two different 
roof fascia
Step 2: Fig.5 shows how the gutter ends was cut to fit the new outer corner. Use a hot knife and push the knife through the plastic gutter. 
Fig.5 Hot knife


Step 3: Outside corner installed. Fig.6 shows the outside corner is being adjusted. Fig.7 shows the dry fit of the outside corner into the existing gutter. Fig.8 shows that a tape measure was used to measure the edge to finish the job. After the gutter was cut, insert the outside corner in place and use deck screws to place it against the existing wood fascia. Once the corner is inserted measure the next part of the gutter and install it. Fig.9 shows to use brown plastic joins to secure the ends. Once the piece is correct place use clear silicone inside the corner.
Fig.6 fitting corner 
with joins
Fig.7 Corner being inserted
Fig.8 Last gutter piece 
measured
Fig.9 Corner being 
supported with joiner
Step 4: Wood edge attached to roof fascia. Fig.10 through fig.12 shows the making of an wood support to help hold the gutter system. Fig.11 and fig.12 shows the triangular edge was cut using a circular saw from a 2x6 Douglas Fir and glued to the existing fascia edge. Holes were drilled into the wood support to house four metal 4-inch screws into the edge of the support piece. A cordless screwdriver was used to insert the screws into the support piece.
Fig.10 Measured
Fig.11 Measure triangle
Fig.12 Cut the piece
Step 5: Wood roof edge painted brown. Fig.13 through fig.15 shows the support will be behind the vinyl gutter and thus needed to be painted. Using a paint brush we chose BEHR Premium Plus Ultra to protect the wood piece behind the gutter. The paint doesn't match but it wont be seen behind the gutter.
Fig.13 Prime 
and paint brown
Fig.14 Insert metal screws
Fig.15 Paint the inside too

Step 6: Fig.16 through fig.18 shows the gutter was cut and placed into the downspout. This was not level because it would go over the top of the existing garage gutter. Fig.18 shows the gutter is being measured past the downspout to add additional gutter to the end. Use a cordless drivers to insert screws from the gutter into the wood fascia.
Fig.16
Fig.17
Fig.18
Step 7: Job is done. After a dry fit of all the components all the parts were secured using a caulking gun with clear silicone adhesive. Fig.19 shows the end result. Not perfect but workable. Plus that what the client wanted.
Fig.19 Downspout over 
existing gutter

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Friday, March 20, 2015

How to Repair a Wood Dresser Drawer Guide

Fig.1 The tools
By Gary Boutin
 

Supplies and Tools: 
3/4 X 3/4 hard Birch wood
1x2x4 Douglas Fir 
Chisel wood 1-inch
Cordless circular saw Makita
Cordless 9-volt batteries Makita 
Cordless screwdriver and Phillip Bit
Drill Electric
Electrical cords 
Glue acid brush
Electrical screwdriver
Spade bits 1/2 inch countersink
Spring clamps - large and medium
Pan head screws
Washers metal chrome
Wood bench (2)
Wood glue
Wood pencil #2
Wood planner - electric

James Tu called to repair an old wood dresser that was given to him when he became a United States citizen. He knew the dresser did not have any monetary value but he wanted it repaired. I advised him to go to a furniture repair company but he wanted to repair it today if possible. This is a temporary repair of a wooden dresser.

This post shows the fourteen steps on how to make a wood drawer guide for an antique dresser.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the tools needed for this repair. All tools listed above. 
Step 2: Fig.2 and fig.3 shows the old drawer guide made of wood from an antique wood dresser. It appeared to be a T-shaped guide and the side are not square for the metal slide.
Fig.2 Damaged wood 
drawer guide
Fig.3 Slide worn



Step 3: Fig.4 shows the old drawer guide was worn off by the drawer metal slide. The metal slide slid over the wood T-guide to open and close the drawer. According to Mr. Tu the metal slide was installed a few years earlier by another handyman.
Fig.4 Drawer splintered
Step 4: Fig.5 shows the underneath the middle drawer was a metal slide and the entrance of the drawer is at the bottom of picture. Fig.6 shows the end of the drawer were the metal piece is supported by the back drawer piece.
Fig.5 Drawer slide
Fig.6 Drawer other end
Step 5: Fig.7 shows the steps of how the wood drawer slide was made. By placing two pieces together the wood slide was made.
Fig.7 Making the slide
Step 6: Fig.8 shows an electric wood planer that will be used to removed wood to make the wood drawer slide.
Fig.8 Wood planner
Step 7: Fig.9 shows a Makita radial saw cutting the 3/4 by 3/4 hardwood piece. This piece will fit inside the metal slide. Fig.10 and fig.11 shows the Makita radial Saw cutting each piece of the drawer slide to size. The wood drawer guide is made from two pieces of wood.
Fig.9 Sizing the rail
Fig.10 Cutting bottom rail
Fig.11 Cutting drawer top slide

Step 8: Fig.12 shows the assembled drawer guide without the notch assembly.
Fig.12 Drawer guide
Step 9: Fig.13 shows a notch (cut out) had to on the guide so the attachment could be placed inside the dresser. 
Fig.13 Guide notch
Step 10: Fig.14 shows the wood glue was placed on the wood guide with spring clamps were used to hold the pieces together.
Fig.14 Spring clamps
Step 11: Fig.15 through fig.20 shows the process of creating the hole for the pan head screw into the wood guide that will allow the drawer into the cabinet.
  1. Fig.15 shows the hole is drilled into the guide.
  2. Fig.16 shows the hole is countersunk to fit the edges of the pan head screw.
  3. Fig.17 shows a 1/2 inch spade bits countersink is started.
  4. Fig.18 shows the hole is not deep enough.
  5. Fig.19 show that the guide is clamped in place using spring clamps. 
  6. Fig.20 shows the guide is notched and the hole is ready to used.

Fig.15 Cordless drill 
create screw hole
Fig.16 After the hole 
countersink the screw
Fig.17 1/2 inch
 countersink
Fig.18 Not deep enough
Fig.19 Spring clamps 
hold guide
Fig.20 Ready to use
Step 12: Once the guide was glues together a pan head screw was used to give the wood guide for strength. Fig.21 and fig.23 shows the transition of the pan head screw being attached to the wood guide.
Fig.21 Insert screw
Fig.22 Place screw
Fig.23 Remove 
and re-insert
Step 13: Fig.24 shows the testing the new drawer guide with the metal drawer slide. It fits but its too long like in fig.25. Fig.26 shows the finished wood guide being inserted into the metal glide.
Fig.24 Drawer slide and Wood guide

Fig.25 T-guide fits but its too long

Fig.26 Finished guide


Step 14: Fig.27 shows this is the new wood drawer guide inserted back into the dresser. Fig.28 shows the dresser now repaired.
Fig.27 Inserted 
into cabinet


Fig.28 Dresser repaired

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-