Sunday, March 31, 2013

How to Install Bedroom Exterior Side Door

Fig.1: Carl with all the supplies
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Caulking gun
Cordless drills with a Phillips bit
Compound saw
Drywall joint compound
Electrical cords
Latex caulking
Level 4-foot
Paint brushes, paint frames, roller cover, paint trays 
Pre-hung door 30-inches
Radial saw
Razor knife (cut sheetrock)
Reciprocating saw with 6-inch metal blade
Saw horses
Sheetrock screws 2-1/2 and 3-inch screws
Shims - composite
Utility knife and extra blades
White Latex Primer
Wood molding (inside and outside of door) 
Wood putty

A client from Wrightwood, California called my repair service to place a new door in a servant room. This job was done with my good friend Carl who helped me do this project.

This post shows the ten steps on how to remove and replace a damaged door. 

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia; Wrightwood has an elevation of 5,935 feet (1,809 meter) and a population of 4,525. This city is a pine covered valley in the San Gabriel Mountains, the area was first developed as cattle ranches and broken up into residential in 1920. Early ski enthusiasts discovered the north facing slopes of the San Gabriel Valley. Wrightwood has evolved from a vacation community to home to over 4000 full-time residents. At nearly 6000 feet in elevation, its valley is protected by the Blue Ridge to the South.

Step 1: Enjoy the drive and bring all the tools, pre-hung door and equipment necessary to do the job. No easy hardware stores in this area so everything must be brought in by truck. Fig.1 and fig.2 shows the two plastic horses that will hold the old door and keep our tools within easy reach.
Fig.2: Two saw horses
Step 2: Remove the door by removing the hing pins. Place the door outside to be cut and disposed. Use electrical cords to supply power to the reciprocating saw that will cut the door out of its existing area. Sometimes to get the door out the door jamb need to be cut in the middle to remove them to the trash area. Fig.3 shows the door has been cut and placed in the trash can for disposal.
Fig.3 Door in trash can

Step 3: Unpacked the 30-inch pre-hung door. Remember prior to ordering the door make sure the measurement are correct. Not all warehouse stores will return a door if the measurements are incorrect. Fig.4 shows the staples being removed from the bottom of the door, the cardboard has been discarded but the information has been kept for the clients records. This door has energy credit available for income tax benefits.

Fig.4 Bottom of pre-hung door
Step 4: Use both a 2-foot and 4-level to level the door. Place the door in the doorway and use 3-inch screws with with composite wood shims to square the door in the existing doorway. A partner makes this step a good choice. Fig.5 shows the screw (3-inch screws) is by the brass hinge and another hole below on the door frame.
Fig.5 Pre-hung 
door frame

Step 5: Fig.6 through fig.8 shows that the wood putty is being applied over the screws after the door in in place.
Fig.6 Putty on 
door frame

Fig.7 Putty 
on door jamb
Fig.8 Putty 
on lock side

Step 6: Fig.9 shows the exterior door edges have had stucco applied to the external wall and the new door jamb.
Fig.9 Stucco patch 
by wood frame
Step 7: After the door is in place, it  needs to be painted with primer. The wood putty needs to be sealed. Fig.10 and fig.11 shows Carl is priming the wood putty holes. Parts needed are 2-inch paint brushes, and a paint trays. Sheetrock will use up the blades (utility knife blades) so its important to keep a good supply on hand.
Fig.10 Carl painting 
wood frame

Carl painting bottom 
of wood frame

Step 8: Fig. 12 shows Carl is working on the door threshold plate.
Fig.12 Carl and 
threshold plate
Step 9: After the door was painted we worked on placing the new wood molding. The wall had to be repaired and new wall mud (drywall joint compound), tape and sheetrock screws will be screwed using a cordless screwdriver with a Phillips bit to repair the wall. Fig.13 shows the interior molding that was cut using a compound saw to cut the 45 degree angles. Use caulking gun and latex caulking after the wood molding is on the door to seal the molding to the wall. It also give the molding a finished look. Use a razor knife to cut the sheetrock and a T-square to cut it straight. This job does not require much taping and replacing sheetrock.
Fig.13 Inside mud 
around wood molding
Step 10: Fig.14 shows the door is complete and the maid quarters private entrance door.
Fig.14 Door finished

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

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