Wednesday, March 27, 2013

How to Replace Bathroom Stop Valve Fill Line

By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Basin wrench 
Channel Lock® pliers
Crescent wrench®
Channel Lock Pliers
Stainless Steel Braided Faucet Supply Line: Size: 3/8" C x 1/2" FIP X 20" L

Miss Henderson called my PennySaver advertisement about water underneath her bathroom sink. The job was to replace the water line from the faucet to the stop valve underneath the bathroom vanity. This is a plumbing job, but for the beginner this is a good place to start. When you purchase the new fill line bring in the old one to the warehouse store. If your not sure what part to get ask a plumbing assistant in the store and they will help you get the right plumbing part. 

This post shows the eight steps to replace a faucet and stop valve fill line. 

Step 1: Turn off the water at the stop valve. Test that the water is turned off by turning on the sink faucet. If the water if off at the stop valve and the water is still on the faucet turn off the other stop valve. For this job the cold side fill line was being replaced.
Step 2: If the water is still leaking past the stop valve, turn off the water at the house main valve
. Usually a gate valve or a ball valve. Next, test if the water if off at the faucet and if so continue to the next step. If not the only choice is to turn off the water at the street main valve. This is difficult without a street valve tool.
Step 3: Fig.1 shows a Stainless Steel Braided Faucet Supply Line, and the size, 3/8" x 1/2" X 20-inches long. This line will cost more but because the line is made of braided stainless steel and the line will last a lifetime. These lines are much more expensive than the simple plastic line and both lines are offered at the warehouse stores. The line below was purchased at The Home Depot® for 6-dollars.
Fig.1 Fill line
Step 4: After the water is turned off, use a crescent wrench to remove the bottom nut tat sits on top of the stop valve. Fig.2 shows a bowl is placed underneath the valve so excess water can be caught from going into the cabinet and flooring.
Fig.2 Drain bowl
Step 5: Now remove the hose from the faucet. Use a basin wrench to catch the bolt, usually made of brass, and unscrew off the faucet brass stem. A basin wrench can be a little difficult to use and it will take practice to get it to work. Fig.3 shows underneath the sink and were the hose goes to the faucet.

Fig.3 New hose
Step 6: Place the new hose on the faucet and tightened using the basin wrench, next use the crescent wrench to tighten the hose on the stop valve. If you are not comfortable using a basin wrench use Channel Lock® pliers.
Fig.4 Job done
Step 7: Now turn on the water just a little crack, enough to fill the pipes but not at full pressure.
Step 8: Now test for leaks. If you find a leak, turn off the water at the stop valve and use either the crescent wrench if the leak is at the stop valve or use the basin wrench at the faucet. If not leaks turn on the stop valve all the way on. Above fig.4 shows the new braided hose in place. The water is on and Miss Henderson will not have to worry about any leaks. This job can take a hour depending on the water turn off.

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

1 comment:

  1. Thanks for the informative article, however rather than undertake this job myself I would hire you to do it.