Showing posts with label putty knife. Show all posts
Showing posts with label putty knife. Show all posts

Friday, April 17, 2015

Stairs Stucco Repair

Fig.1 Quickrete® Stucco 50# bag
By Gary Boutin
 
Supplies and Tools:

Bucket 5- Gallon or Concrete tub (small) 
Cement bond
Concrete tools: Trowel
Exterior paint - Match color 
Putty knife (scraper)
Quickrete® Stucco Patch Box

This is a simple repair of replacing stucco between a cement stairs and a stucco patio floor between a stair pathway. These stairs lead to a the pool area from a separate apartment.

This post shows the eight steps on how fill a little crack with stucco patch.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows a
Quickrete® Stucco bag, but for this job stucco patch is better to use because it's boxed and comes in smaller amount. Fig.2 shows the cement stairs that lead down to the pool area.
Fig.2 Stair
Step 2: Fig.3 shows a close-up shot of the stucco near the cement steps. The left top tip of this picture is the cement steps.
Fig.3 Cement near stucco
 Step 3: Fig.4 shows a large area of the second floor outside. Stucco used as a floor.
Fig.4 Patio flooring
Step 4: Fig.5 shows the stucco floor next to the cement steps.
Fig.5 The damaged stucco strip
Step 6: Fig.6 shows the putty knife shoving the stucco in between the separation. Before applying the stucco patch, brush a small amount of cement bond on the damage and remove any loose stucco from stairway. Then apply the stucco the the damaged area.
Fig.6 Shoved stucco 
w/ putty knife

Step 7: Fig.7 shows the repair. The middle of the picture shows the addition of stucco patch to the edge of the second floor patio and the cement step. It dries in less than 2-hours before walking on it.
Fig.7 Repair done
Step 8: Fig.8 shows a close-up picture of the cement step and the bottom stucco edge is repaired. After the stucco has dried apply several coat of exterior paint to the area to match the stucco patio flooring. 

Note: The UV rays will discolor the existing stucco flooring so the new paint will not be an exact match.
Fig.8 Job finished

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Saturday, March 15, 2014

How to Paint Garage Bedroom - Part 7 of 19 - Paint - Repairing Damages

Mud knives 6-8-12 inches
By Gary Boutin

Parts and Supplies:
120-grit sand screen
Finger (human preferably)
Joint compound
Putty knife
Wallboard sanding block
Sheetrock sandpaper or screens
Wall knife
Wet rag 

Mrs. Dee wanted to upgrade her bedroom/office. She wanted the bedroom wall fixed, new baseboards to replace the missing ones, new ceiling and walls painted and she needed this job done as fast as possible. Her new tenet would arrive in three days.

This post shows the eight wall damage repairs and how each one was repaired.

Step 1: Fig.1a and fig.1b shows first the damage and the following pictures shows the repairs. This repair is on top of the A/C vent. Fig.1a shows the first layer of joint compound was applied, fig.1b shows another layer was applied to cover the metal corner bead. Fig.1c shows the completed job.
Fig.1a Corner repair
Fig.1b Corner repair
Fig.1c Corner repair
Note: Now just putting on several layer of joint compound on the damage does not mean the job is finished. Each repair must dry completely to a white color. When your hand are on top of the repair the joint compound must not be cold. If it is the repair needs more time to dry.

Step 2: Fig.2a through fig.2c shows a large nail hole that was removed but removing the nail left a huge hole in the wall. Use a wall knife with joint compound and run the blade over the entire hole. Fig.2b notice the first layer of joint compound that was applied. Fig.2c shows the hole completely filled and smooth. Now the repair had to dry. 
Fig.2a The hole
 Fig.2b Smaller hole
Fig.2c Patched hole
Note: This small repairs will need very little sanding and some may need texture. Most of the time this can be avoided if the side of the repair are wiped off with a sponge.

Step 3: Fig.3a through fig.3c shows scratches on the wall. This is sometime done by moving furniture. To repair this damage use the smallest scraper in your tool box, place some joint compound on the wall knife, or putty knife and apply to fill in the scratches.
Fig.3a Wall scratches
Fig.3b
Wall scratches
Fig.3c
Wall scratches
Note: If you do not want a flat area on your wall, use a sponge or damp rag and remove the excess joint compound from the edge of the repair.

Step 4: Fig.4a through fig.4c shows a wall corner that has the bottom corner bead topping completely removed from the area. This is also a normal repair, it happens when furniture is move around the room hitting the corner of the wall. Fig.4a shows the damage, fig.4b shows the first layer of joint compound and fig.4c shows the final layer applied to this corner.
Fig.4a Corner 
bead exposed
Fig.4b Another coat
Fig.4c Final coat
Step 5: Fig.5a through fig.5h shows the cracks in the wall being filled with joint compound. In this job the room had settled and there was wall cracks in the wallboard. Filling them with joint compound make the room look better and the paint will adhere better instead of filling the wall crack with paint. There are tools that address this problem, but a finger works better for this job than any other tools available. 
Fig.5a Mud on finger

Fig.5b Push mud in cracks
Fig.5c More mud
Fig.5d Cracks filled
Fig.5e Side of A/C vent
Fig.5f Finishing A/C vent
Fig.5g Push mud
Fig.5h Job finished
Step 6: Fig.6a and fig.6b shows another area on the A/C vent that was damaged. This area was filled with joint compound, Fig.6a has some joint compound on top ready to smooth out. Fig.6b is a repair that has dried and had been sanded to a flat surface area.
Fig.6a Joint compound
Fig.6b Area filled

Step 7: Fig.7a and fig.7c shows a tape damage. Fig.7a shows that when the room was taped the wall tape did not reach the floor area, this leaving a square hole. Fig.7b shows the wall knife used to fill this hole and fig.7c shows the completed repair.
Fig.7a Bottom of tape
Fig.7b Wall knife filling area
Fig.7c Area drying
Step 8: Fig.8a shows another A/C vent damage near the edge of the corner bead. This one was a little harder to repair because of the amount of joint compound used to fill the hole. Fig.8b shows that once filled the area had to be floated, meaning it had to be the same height around the repair. Fig.8c shows the completed repair.
Fig.8a The damage
Fig.8b Floating the joint compound
Fig.8c Completed repair


How to Paint a Garage Bedroom:

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Sunday, April 3, 2011

How to Replace Bathtub Diverter Spout Tile

Handyman removing tub spout with channel lock pliers
Fig.1 Gary
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
Channel locks® pliers
Caulking white silicone
Diverter instructions
Electric drill
Pencil or permanent market
Shoe Booties (protects bath)
Shower tile
Spring clamps 4 inch
Teflon tape(white)
Tile adhesive
Tile hole saw kit
Tile scraper 1/4 inch gaps

Dr. Valvus called me from an advertisement from a Bing advertisement campaign. He was related to the late Dr. Valvus who invented the valve. Dr. Valvus wanted his shower tile repaired after a local plumber worked on the shower spout.

This post shows the eighteen steps on how to drill a hole in a shower tile, and how to replace a missing diverter valve.  

Step 1: A local plumber repaired the shower mixing valve but would not repair the damages or the diverter valve and stated that the doctor should get a handyman to finish the job. Plumbers do not repair tile or wall damages, they just can not make enough money to cover their time and cost. 
Step 2: Fig.1 shows the Handyman removing the diverter spout with a pair of Channel locks
®
pliers
, now twist off the diverter spout away from the wall. 
Step 3: Fig.2 shows the diverter valve has been removed and only the pipe is left.
This shower/tub is missing the tile by the water pipe
Fig.2 Tub with missing tile
Step 4: Fig.3 shows are Channel locks® pliers that were used for this job. The handyman is wearing shoe booties on his shoes to protect the tub sides.
Channel locks® pliers
Fig.3
Channel Locks pliers

Step 5: The next step is to cut the hole in the tile. From your local hardware store, or a plumbers store purchase a tile hole saw kit, make sure that the hole saw is the same diameter has the water spout. This kit comes with a tile hole saw and a base.   
Step 6: Fig.4 shows the tile hole saw is being drawn with a pencil on the backside of the shower tile
.
This Tile Hole Saw Kit is used to cut the tile for the water pipe
Fig.4 Circular tile cutter
Step 7: Fig.5 shows the circle drawn in pencil.
Use a pencil to trace the cut in the tile
Fig.5 Tile to be used
Step 8: Fig.6 shows the base is placed on top of the tile. In this example the hole needs to be position as the left upper side of the tile, not an easy cut.

The tile cutter base allows the tile to be cut without damaging the tile
Fig.6 Circular base 
for water pipe
Step 9: Fig.7 shows the drill drilling the into the backside of the tile. In this example an electric drill was used.
The use of an electric drill provide constant power to cut the tile
Fig.7 Drilling tile hole
Step 10: Fig.8 shows the hole from the tile saw, the cut has been made. Dr. Valvus had to help me steady the drill and the clamps so the drill hole saw would cut straight.
This hole saw has diamond on it tip to cut this tile
Fig.8 Hole Cut
Step 11: Fig.9 shows the orange tabs are the spring clamps that held the base of the tile hole saw. Two sets of 4 inch spring clamps were used to do this project.
The Hole tile Base is gray and the Orange tip is a spring clamp on the tile
Fig.9 Removing the base
Step 12: Fig.10 shows the hole in the tile and on the new spout the plumber placed into the shower. The end piece is not new, its the piece between the spout and the valve that needed to be replaced, this picture does not show that part.
Tile is on the water pipe
Fig.10 Fitting the copper pipe 
around the newly cut tile
Step 13: Fig.11 shows the hole in the tile ready to be applied to the shower wall.
Ready to be applied to shower wall
Fig.11 Hole cut
Step 14: Fig.12 shows Teflon tape is being applied on the new copper pipe threads. This Teflon tape came with the diverter package.
White tape is being applied to the threads of the water pipe
Fig.12 Teflon the end
Step 15: Fig.13 shows the instructions on how to install a diverter on a spout pipe.
Hole Saw Directions
Fig.13 Direction
Step 16: Fig.14 shows the tile adhesive being mix to place behind the new tile to glue to the shower wall. I used a tile scraper with 1/4 inch gaps to allow the adhesive on the tile.
Grout is being mixed for the wall
Fig.14 Tile grout
Step 17: Fig.15 shows the tube grout being applied to the edges of the tile.
After the grout the caulking is for the metal pipe
Fig.15 Applying caulking


Step 18: Fig.16 shows the new wall tile and the new tub diverter valve. Now Dr. Valvus can enjoy his new shower in his new home.
The job is done and the tub spout and tile is like new
Fig.16 Job finished new 
tile with new fixtures

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    • Cookie Alert: European Union laws requires that you know that this blog uses cookies. If you are concerned about this please click here to see how Google uses this information.

    Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-