Showing posts with label measuring tape. Show all posts
Showing posts with label measuring tape. Show all posts

Sunday, March 8, 2015

How to Replace Kitchen Cabinet Sink Base - Part 2 of 2 - Replacement

Fig.1 Kitchen floor and 
cement foundation
By Gary Boutin 

Supplies and Tools:   
Base pieces (3) 5 1/2 by 23 1/4
Caulking silicone white
Electrical cords
Measurement tape
Pencil or marking pen
Radial saw 
Saw bench - portable 
Silicone caulking
Small roller frame
Small roller cover 
Shelf with melamine on both sides
Square metal (yellow)
Vicegrip® pliers

Dr. Jorge Valvus needed his kitchen sink base cabinet shelf replaced. This post is his story.

This post will show the ten steps on how to install the new shelf.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the bottom of the cabinet with the shelf removed. The three brown pieces of wood need to be replaced with new wood base pieces that will hold the new shelf in place.
Step 2: Fig.2 shows a GMC ® 7-1/4 radial blade that will be used to cut the shelf to its correct dimensions.
Fig.2 GMC ® 7-1/4 
radial blade
Step 3: Fig.3 through fig.5 shows the tape measure that is used to measure from the kitchen wall on both sides of the front of the cabinet. This is the first measurement which identifies the width of the shelf. The length is measured from within the cabinet to get the exact measurement.

Fig.3 Fat Max ® measurement tape

Fig.4 Width left measurement

Fig.5 Width right measurements
Step 4: Fig.6 and fig.7 shows a square that is needed to get good cutting lines. Use a large square with large numbers, like the one below. A pencil or marking pen will also be needed to draw the lines on the new shelf. Since a table saw was not available for this job, a shelf with clear cutting line will make cutting the shelf easier with a radial saw.

Fig.6 Large numbers square
Fig.7 Different view
Step 5: Fig.8 and fig.10 shows the square is locked by placing the top edge of the square thus the bottom leg is a perfect straight line (90°) the bottom leg is creating the line that needs to be cut with the radial saw. Fig.10 shows the lines that was drawn on the shelf and fig.11 shows the radial saw is cutting the base pieces.
Fig.8 Top leg on shelf
Fig.9 Square make 90° lines
Fig.10 Shelf penciled lines
Fig.11 Radial saw cutting 
shelf base pieces
Step 6: Fig.12 shows that once the cuts are made, the edges of the new shelf should be painted with white primer to prevent moisture from damaging the shelf. For fast results use a small roller frame with a small roller cover to add the sealer to the edge of the shelf.
Fig.12 Edges of the shelf
Step 7: Once the shelf is ready to be placed in the cabinet then its time to cut the shelf base pieces. The purpose of the shelf base pieces is that they hold up the base shelf in the cabinet. Fig.13 shows an exact measurement of 5-1/2 by 23-1/4 was taken and then three new shelf base pieces were cut using a radial saw. Fig.14 shows a new base piece at an angle to show the difference between the new and the old. Fig.15 shows an new base piece placed on the left side of the cabinet. Now all the bases pieces are in place and ready to place the new shelf in the cabinet.
Fig.13 Measuring the base
Fig.14 Replacing the 
bottom base piece
Fig.15 Middle base piece
center support
Step 8: Fig.16 through fig.19 shows that now that all the base pieces are ready to be placed into the cabinet, the next step is to apply silicone caulking on the edges of the base pieces. This silicone not only seals the new shelf but acts has an adhesive to glue the shelf to the base pieces.

Fig.16 Apply caulking on the 
older wooden side

Fig.17 Apply silicone to 
new wood shelf
Fig.18 Apply to middle shelf
Fig.19 Applied to left 
side of base strips
Step 9: Fig.20 through fig.23 shows the right side of the shelf was sealed in clear silicone seal.
Fig.20 Right side sealed 
Fig.21 Shelf sealed in front
Fig.22 Right side completely sealed
Fig.23 both sides are done
Step 10: Fig.24 through fig.26 shows the left side of the shelf was sealed in clear silicone. Fig.27 shows the final picture and the cabinet shelf is ready to be used.
Fig.24 Left side sealed 
including dishwasher pipe at
 the end of the wall
Fig.25 new shelf with old 
damaged plumbing pipes
Fig.26 left side completely sealed 
with new plumbing pipes
Fig.27 The work is finished
How to Replace a Kitchen Cabinet Sink Base:

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-
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Monday, November 24, 2014

How to Install Custom Window Blinds

Fig.1 Tools
By Gary Boutin 

Supplies and Tools:  
Bali® coconut blinds
Cordless drill with Bit extender and Phillip tip
Drill bit 3/16 
Measuring tape 
Vacuum Cleaner 
Wall anchors and brackets (included)

George Morco new home in the city of Highland, California. He wanted to install custom blinds in his office. He had purchased a standard lateral blind from a local drapery store. The blind would not fit correctly so he decided to purchase his blinds at The Home Depot. Bali® blinds were exactly the perfect fit for his office window and were easy to install because of the blind care and well written instructions.  

The Home Depot web site gives information on Bali® 3.5 valance coconut blinds. George wanted "Bali® faux wood blinds that have many advantages including, added privacy, improved room darkening ability and ease of cleaning. A 3.5" valance is upgrade from standard and the durable steel headrail is guaranteed not to sag, and it has hidden valance clips for a cleaner look." A complete Bali® instructions is located here.

 This post shows the eleven steps to installing Bali® Coconut Blinds on an office window.

Step 1: Fig.1 above right shows the tool box with drill and anchors for the job.
Step 2: Fig.2 shows the office window surrounded by neighboring bushes.
Fig.2 The office window
Step 3: Fig.3 shows the Bali® box.

Fig.3 Bali® boxed blinds
Step 4: Fig.4 shows written and pictograph instructions on how to install these blinds in any location.
Fig.4 Written pictograph
Step 5: The blinds were wrapped in stretch wrapped. Fig.5 shows that the blinds were wrapped in bubble wrap plastic and small pieces of cardboard in each slat kept the product from being blemished during delivery. Each individual metal piece was package in clear plastic. All additional hardware was encased in clear plastic. A master envelope was on top showing all the parts of the blind and its location. Fig.6 shows the hardware was packaged in a box and fig.7 shows each piece was  individually wrapped.
Fig.5 Bubble wrapped
Fig.6 Boxed hardware
Fig.7 Individually wrapped
Step 6: Fig.8 and fig.9 shows the right and left upper brackets.  
Fig.8 Left Bracket
Fig.9 Upper bracket
Step 7: Fig.10 and fig.11 shows the middle bracket being installed.

Fig.10 Drilling Support
Fig.11 Middle bracket
Step 8: Fig.12 shows the two end bracket with the door opened ready to install the custom blinds.
Fig.12 Two end bracket

Step 9: Fig.13 shows the blind is ready to install. Place each end of the blind into the two upper brackets. Fig.14 shows the blind slats has been opened. Fig.15 shows the cord for the blind that will need to be removed from its packaging.
Fig.13 Ready to install
Fig.14 Hanging blinds
Fig.15 Cords
Step 10: Fig.16 shows the bottom of the blind make sure it fits correctly. This one was already adjusted and it rested neatly on the bottom of the window sill.
Fig.16 Bottom view
Step 11: Fig.17 shows the wood valance is being placed on top of the blind. Fig.18 shows the job is finished and the blind is working correctly. Now George has privacy for his office.
Fig.17 Valance

Fig.18 Job finished
Read other blind post below

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-
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Monday, September 29, 2014

How to Replace Leaking Patio Water Pipe - Part 3 of 3 - Water Bibs Re-Assembly

By Gary Boutin
Fig.1 Placing Teflon 
tape on adapter

Supplies and Tools:
Anchors plastic clear
Channel locks pliers
Metal nipple - rusted 
Measuring tape  
Pipe Teflon 
Pipe wrench
Plastic clamp
Straight pipe wrench, cast iron, 48 inch
Teflon tape 

Schedule 40 PVC Parts Lists:
Cristy's Red Hot Blue glue (adhesive)
Slip x slip socket aps (1)
Slip x slip socket 90° Elbows (5)
Slip x MPT Socket Male Adapter 3/4 inch (2)
Pipe 3/4 inch x 10 feet (2)
      2-inch (1), 4-inch (2), 4-foot (1), 10-foot (1)
Ratcheting PVC Cutter
Slip x Slip Coupling 1/2 inch (1)
Tee (1)

This post shows eleven steps on how to re assemble both water bibs.

Step 1: Fig.1 above shows the Teflon tape being placed on the adapter. This was used on all threaded parts. Next, the socket male adapter is inserted into a Tee rusted pipe.
Teflon tape


Step 2: Fig.2 shows once the male adapter was placed the other pieces of the manifold were placed together.
Fig.2 Rusted 90° elbows attached
Step 3: Fig.3 shows placing the metal nipple back on and inserting the 90° Elbow. Next the twin water manifold ready for the water bibs.
Fig.3 90° elbow
Step 4: Fig.4 shows the brass water bibs being installed back into the manifold.
Fig.4 Brass water bibs
 Step 5: Fig.5 shows the right side with the water bib.
Fig.5 Water bib installed
Step 6: Fig.6 shows the left side water bib being placed and ready for installation.
Fig.6 Water bib
Step 7: Fig.7 shows plastic clamp placed on the nipple to hold the manifold to the wall.
Fig.7 Wall clamp
Step 8: Fig.8 and fig.9 shows pre-drilled holes for metal screws with pipe clamps were used to hold the Tee valve close to the wall.
Fig.8 Wall clamp
Fig.9 Top view of clamp
Step 9: Fig.10 shows the PVC pipe is ready for the new twin water bib manifold.
Fig.10 Upright pipe for the manifold
 Step 10: Fig.11 shows the completed twin water bib manifold ready to use.
Fig.11 Manifold finished
Step 11: Fig.12 shows the water pipe has been removed and the water is no longer leaking by the patio gate. Mission accomplished.
Fig.12 Job finished

How To Replace Leaking Patio Water Pipe:


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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

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