Saturday, January 28, 2012

Blue Bedroom - Part 3 of 7 - Sanding and Priming the Ceiling

Fig.1 Ceiling to be sanded
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools: 

150 grit sanding screen
Extension pole 2 feet
Latex primer 3 gallons
Masking tape 2-inch
Metal paint tray with plastic inserts
Paint brush 2 inch

Pole sander
Roller cover 3/8 inch nap
Roller frame 9 inch

Sandpaper
Tarps 9x12 

Tyler Zowat, noticed the listing and called me to come to his home in Perris, California. He had a little girl's room with blue walls and since his daughter had grown up and moved to private school, he wanted the bedroom closet finished. This post is a continuation of the previous post to finish the sanding and priming of the ceiling.
 
This post show the six steps of sanding and sealing the ceiling. 

Step 1: Fig.1 and fig.2 shows that after the popcorn the ceiling is very uneven and needed to be sanded.  
Fig.2 Ceiling ready to be sanded
Step 2: Fig.3 and fig.4 shows a pole sander was used to sand the ceiling. A 150 grit sanding screen was used for the ceiling.
Fig.3 Pole sander sanding the ceiling flat
Fig.4 Pole sander by ceiling vent
Step 3: Fig.5 shows the ceiling was rolled using latex primer with a nine-inch paint frame and a 3/8 inch (9.525 millimeter) nap roller cover.  Cover the floor to protect the carpeting and tape the tarp with 2-inch masking tape at the edges.
Fig.5 Paint with primer
Step 4: Fig.6
shows the primer to be used on the ceiling. Pour the paint into a metal paint tray with a plastic liner. Used an extension pole and screwed into the paint frame. This gives you more control over the roller and also helps reduce fatigue. Now dip the roller into the paint and applied the paint to the ceiling edges around the complete perimeter of the room.
Fig.6 Use Kilz primer
Step 5: 
After the first coat is finished, roll the second coat in the opposite direction.
Step 6:
Fans were used in the room to the ceiling area to assist in drying the paint. This type of primer dries in one hour and is ready for the next job. 


Blue Bedroom:

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    Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

    Sunday, January 22, 2012

    How to Replace an Aluminum Front door Screen

    Re-screening Tools
    By Gary Boutin

    Supplies and Tools:
    Spline 11/64-inch

    Fiberglass charcoal screening
    Screen tool
    1/4 inch screwdriver
    Needle nose pliers
    Scissors 
    Razor knife 
    Hammer

    I received a call from Michael, from Uncommon Good, a program teaching students green energy. His home is located in Upland, California, a beautiful neighborhood with mature trees in a rural setting. He had just purchased a century-old home and wanted to preserve its look. Being a principal member of Uncommon Good, he was using the house to teach others how to go green. Instead of replacing the aging aluminum door, he decided to re-screen it.

    This post shows the nine steps on how to replace the fiberglass screening on an aluminum screen door.

    Step 1: Fig.1
    shows the door has been removed, on the right side is the aluminum hinge with the pin inserted inside not to lose it. It is now ready for re-screening. Place the door on a clean dry surface, for example a cement driveway, to have a flat surface to work on., or use an asphalt driveway. The door must be placed screen towards the sky, and the metal decorations on the pavement, the channels must be in clear view to remove the spline from the screen channels.
    Fig.1 Door pin
    Step 2: Fig.2
    and fig.3 shows the spline, that will catch the edges of the screen securing it into the metal channel. This job required the purchase of number .160 round or 11/64 inch spline package. The fiberglass screen comes in gray or charcoal and the size for this job was 36 by 84 inches. The package comes in a small bag and the spline in rolled in a circle. When you purchase the screen it will come in a 3-foot size roll. Now that the spline and screen has been purchased and the door is on a flat surface, use needle-nose pliers, or a 1/4 inch (6.35 millimeter) flat head screwdriver to remove the old spline.
    Fig.2 Door and spline
    Fig.3 Removing spline
    Step 3:
    Once the tip of the spline is free, use the needle-nose pliers to pull the spline about 4-inches out of the metal channel. Then use your hands to pull the spline out of the metal channel freeing the old screen from the door. Remove the used spline and screen to the trash. Next, lay the new screen over the door, do not cut any of it, and get the new spline package.
    Step 4: Fig.4 shows the spline is guided into the metal door channel with the screen underneath it. Next use the screen tool to roll the spline into the metal channel.

    Fig.4 Screen tool
    Step 5: Fig.5 shows as you move around the door to the metal handle, cut the screen around the handle. If you do not cut around the handle then the screen will not lay flat as the spline is pushed into the metal channel. Next when you do the other side, you must stretch the screen as you roll the spline into the channel. This is the process of getting a flat screen on the door. After the spline has been installed into the metal channel and you are satisfied that the screen is stretched flat and taut, then it's time to cut the excess screen off the door. Use the scissors to cut the bottom of the door screen, remove any excess.  
    Fig.5 Door latch
    Step 6: Fig.6
    shows the use of a razor knife to cut the screen at the spline, not on the screen side, but on the metal side of the door.
    Fig.6 Razor knife
    Step 7: Fig.7
    shows that the door has a new screen, the door needs to be rehung on the hinges. Use a hammer to hit the pins into the door hinges.

    Fig.7 Hammer
    Step 8: Fig.8 shows that after the door has been hung, re-install the door spring. The two screws need to be re-tightened because this spring helps the door re-close after it is opened.

    Fig.8 Door spring
    Step 9: Fig.9 shows the door re-screening is finished, and the screen keeps the bugs out. Looking at this post re-screening looks easy, but it can take up to 2 hours, but after a few screens the job does get faster.
    Fig.9 Finished


    DIY Advisor Blogs:
  • Handyman Blog: DIY Advisor
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    • Cookie Alert: European Union laws requires that you know that this blog uses cookies. If you are concerned about this please click here to see how Google uses this information.

    Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

    How to Remove Aluminum Decking Screws From Spa Deck

    Fig.1 Vice Grip®
    By Gary Boutin

    Supplies and Tools:
    Cordless screwdriver with Phillip bit 

    Crescent wrench for additional torque 

    This job required the removal of 20-screws using my cordless screwdriver, but some fifteen 3-inch aluminum screws remained. The deck had to be removed to repair a spa pipe that had been leaking. 

    This post shows the five steps on how to remove damaged aluminum head screws from a Douglas Fir wood deck. 

    Step 1: Fig.1 shows the Vice Grip® around each screw top.
    Step 2: Fig.2 shows the jaws of the pliers around the screw and turn counter-clockwise until the screw comes out of the wood. I had to dig out the wood around the aluminum screw for room for the tip of the pliers.  
    Fig.2 Vice Grip® Pliers

    Step 3: Fig.3, fig.4 and fig.5 shows each picture shows the screw being removed from the deck. The process must be repeated until all the screws are removed. Each screw takes about 3-minutes to remove. You must have good hand strength for this task. If you do not have the strength, then use a Crescent Wrench on the narrow side of the Vice Grip® and use the torque of the wrench to give you additional pressure.
    Fig.3 unscrewing from top
    Fig.4 Turning
    Fig.5 Its out job finished


    DIY Advisor Blogs:
  • Handyman Blog: DIY Advisor
  • Food Blog: From Gary Boutin
  • Artwork Blog: Light in Dark Artwork
  • Class-A Tests: DIY Class-A Drivers License Tests

    • Cookie Alert: European Union laws requires that you know that this blog uses cookies. If you are concerned about this please click here to see how Google uses this information.

    Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-