How to Remove Galvanized Posts on a Mobile Home Driveway

Fig.1
Galvanized
Posts

By Gary Boutin

Tools and Supplies: 
Cement (premix)
Electrical extension lines.
Electrical tape (Black plastic)
Forged steel sledge hammer with 10-inch steel handle
Hand held metal sledge
Milwaukee Torch metal blade pack
Reciprocating Saw (Sawzall®)


Personal note: I started a new DIY Class-A Drivers License Tests blog to help truck drivers pass their exams and endorsements needed for driving position. To easily find the each test and endorsements, check out Class-A Sitemap web pages.

According to Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia; a Mobile Home is called a trailer, house trailer, static caravan, a Home that is a prefabricated and built in a factory. Then the trailer is taken to Mr. Mancini new home. Harold has called my service company for over 15 years. He lives in a beautiful mobile home park located in Hollywood, California. His home was a double-wide mobile home on permanent foundation and this time he wanted to remove the old galvanized fencing post on a mobile home driveway.

Step 1: The tools: Fig.1 shows one of the fence posts that need to be cut down. Fig.2 shows the tools that were used to remove these posts. Two sets of electrical extension (top yellow has lighted plug ends 12/3and HDX middle orange) and a (bottom) is the Dewalt reciprocating saw with a Torch metal blade. For this job I used 4-Torch metal blades as some of the post had other metals or concrete inside the fencing posts. Fig.3 shows black electrical tape used to attach each set of electrical ends together.

Fig.2 The Tools

Fig.3 Electrical tape

Step 2: Fig.4 through fig.8 shows the progression of cutting the pipe. Fig.4 shows laying the saw on its side and slowly cutting the pipe at the asphalt level. With the use of the Milwaukee Torch metal blade the time it takes to cut the post is must faster then conventional cutting blades. Fig.7 shows the post has been cut and the post is being pushed aside for disposal.

Fig.4 
Cutting # 1

Fig.5
Cutting # 2

Fig.6 
Cutting # 3

Fig.7 
Cutting # 4

Fig.8 
Cutting # 5

Step 3: Harold has grandchildren and he wanted his area by the driveway to be safe so no one would bet hurt or cut from the newly cut fence posts. The idea was to hammer the fence post sides inside the existing pipe and protect the area. Fig.9 through fig.11 hammers the post edges inside the metal pipe.

Fig.9 
Hammering #1

Fig.10  
Hammering #2

Fig.11
 Hammering #3

Step 4: Later, Harold would fill in each post with pre-mix stucco cement (fig.12) and the job would be done.

Fig.12 Cement

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

How to Repair Damaged MDF Hallway Baseboard

Fig.1 Damaged Baseboard

By Gary Boutin  File:

Tools and Supplies:
Blue painters tape
Dynaflex® 230 silicone
Kilz® oil spray primer paint 
Red stucco tape
Sand paper 120 grit
Scrapers 
Small brush
Wood glue (5 milliliters = 0.1691 ounces)

Painting can be quite fun, the furniture needs to be moved to other area to make the area available for painting. This is the reason why this MDF (Medium-density fiberboard baseboard was damage. MDF is has many uses specially in California were there is no straight wall. MDF is made of sawdust and glue and cured with pressure to form any shape needed. MDF baseboards cost is three quarter less its counterpart the wood baseboard or wood trim. 

This post shows the five steps to repair this baseboard.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the damage to the MDF baseboards. Tape the area for repairing and painting. Fig.2 shows some of the painting tools needed to protect the area around the baseboard damage.

Fig.2 Painting preparation

Step 2: Once the area is masked with painter tape, the repairs start. Look at the damage, there are three choices. The first and easiest choice is to repair the damage baseboard. The second choice is cut out a small piece and replace it with another piece of baseboard. The last choice is to remove the entire baseboard for that wall and replace the a new piece. For this project repairing was the best choice. Fig.3 shows the damage baseboard and fig.4 shows the first step is to press the baseboard against itself.

Fig.3 Damaged baseboard

Fig.4 Press together

Step 3: Fig.5 shows the Titebond® glue placed in a small glass container. Fig.6 shows to use a small brush or your fingers and apply a little amount (5 milliliters = 0.1691 ounces) of glue on the damaged area. Start to press the baseboard damage back together to form like the rest of the baseboard. 

Fig.5 Titebond Glue

Fig.6 Press against the wall

Step 4: Fig.7 shows that after the glue has dried, use caulking or paintable silicone to seal the area from moisture. Fig.8 shows a tube of Dynaflex® 230 silicone but any caulking will work for this project. Dynaflex® 230 was available from a prior job.

Fig.7 Clear Silicone

Fig.8 Dynaflex® 230 silicone

Step 5: After the caulking has dried, use 120 grit sandpaper to remove the rough edges. Fig.9 shows the next step is to seal the area with Kilz® Oil  Primer. It does not have to be an oil primer any primer will do the job. I chose Kilz® Oil spray primer because it was a left over from a prior job. Fig.10 shows the primer has dried and the final step of painting the baseboard to match.

Fig.9 
Primer

Fig.10 Spray primer

• What is MDF - Medium Density Fiberboard?

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

How to Paint a Mobile Home Carport Wall and Skirt

Fig.1 Paint frame 
and roller cover

By Gary Boutin                     

Tools and Supplies:
Ladder  (used near carport)
Paint (Ultra Pure White Satin Enamel Exterior Paint)
Paint can opener
Painter's paper 
Painter's tape (blue and green)
Painter's roller frame (Home Depot Orange)
Paint roller cover 9-inch
Paint stir (Plastic red)
Paint stir (free at paint counter)

Fig.2 Red Paint stir
and Paint tray

Paint tray (Home Depot white)
Tarps (Gray and Blue)

Mrs. Wow wanted to have her garage wall and mobile home skirt painted before Thanksgiving. She had invited her entire family and she had a huge list of items to repair. This post addresses only the painting of the wood paneling and the skirt. 

This post shows the four steps to paint a Mobile Home side wall and skirt.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows a paint frame and 9-inch roller cover. Fig.2 shows the a red paint stir, roller frame extension and paint tray. Fig.3 through fig.5 shows the wall and skirt areas that needed to be painted.

Fig.3 Garage wall
and skirt

Fig.4 All cable 
needed to be tied down

Fig.5 Lower skirt

Step 2: Fig.6 through fig.8 shows the data and satellite cables are secured using cable ties and nailed or screwed to the mobile home skirt. 

Fig.6 Securing cable

Fig.7 Hammering

Fig.8 Cable tie

Step 3: Fig.9  through fig.12 shows the progression of painting the mobile home skirt, and the base board on the skirt. Some areas had to be painted with a brush because the roller did not cover all the areas on the wall and the skirt.  

Fig.9 Painting the skirt

Fig.10 Painting around the air vent

Fig.11 Painting the
driveway baseboard

Fig.12 painting the top
of the driveway baseboard

Step 4: Fig.13 and fig.14 shows the wall are clean, white and finished. All ready for Mrs. Wow to have a Thanksgiving party.

Fig.13 Wall painted

Fig.14 Skirt finished

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-