Thursday, November 20, 2014

How to Repair a Damaged Can Opener

Fig.1 Feed gear
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:   
Loctite® Adhesive Spray
Damaged manual can opener

This blog is about fixing and saving money. So when my manual can opener decided to take a holiday. The choice seemed simple, repair it. 

This post shows the four steps to repairing the feed gear and crank shaft and returning the manual can opener back to work. 

Step 1: This can openers has two handles that squeeze together so the two gear can lock onto the metal can. Fig.2 shows both gears. On the left side of fig.2 is the top gear, which is a circular sharp blade for cutting the top of the metal can. On the right of fig.2 is the bottom gear, which is also attached to the feed gear moving the can backward and the other side of this gear is the large black plastic handle that needs to be turned manually.
Fig.2 Can opener gears
Step 2: Inspect what is wrong with the kitchen tool. Find out why the manual can opener would not work? Fig.3 shows that the can opener is missing the handle. Without the handle the can opener cannot move the can backwards to cut the top. Fig.4 shows the black plastic handle.
Fig.3 Missing handle
Fig.4 Crank handle
Step 3: Fig.5 shows the black plastic handle is no longer secured on the crank shaft the metal spindle falls out of the chrome base. 
Fig.5 Crank shaft spindle
Step 4: Just pressing the black handle back on the crank shaft will not repair the can opener. During its parts installation the handle was melted over the crank shaft and thus fused itself to the metal spindle. Fig.6 shows that to make sure the handle is secured use a spray adhesive inside the black handle and put the spindle gear back into the can opener. Apply pressure on the black plastic handle until the handle is snapped into place. The adhesive will dry and the kitchen tool is ready for its next can. Fig.7 shows the can opener ready for its next can to open, this job is done. 
Fig,6 Spray adhesive
Fig.7 Repaired

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Monday, November 17, 2014

How to Make Redwood Raised Garden Beds


Fig.1 The plan
By Gary Boutin
Assembled by Jag

Supplies and Tools:
Claw hammer  
Cordless drill
Chip brush; one time use
Copper-Green Wood Preservative Spray
Leather work gloves  
Star Flat Head Wood Deck Screws #10 - 2-1/2 in. (Torx bit included)
Measurement tape
Miter box
Pressure Treated Lumber HF Brown Stain 2 inch x 6 inch x 8 feet (3)
Titebond Original Wood Glue, 16 fluid ounces

Jag stopped by his local The Home Depot for a special raised garden bed that he wanted to make for his wife. He came to the Anaheim Super Store - Lumber/Building Materials area for information and lumber cuts for his project. He needed to understand the difference between Treated Wood and Douglas Fir dimension lumber. 

This post shows the ten steps to assembling a special raised garden bed. 

Step 1: Arrive at your nearest The Home Depot and talk to an associate. If your project involves working with wood, ask for the location of Lumber/Building Materials.
Step 2: Explain the lumber associate about your project. For this project, fig.1 shows that Jag had his plans in his head and together we put the plans on paper.
Step 3: He looked at several thicknesses of lumber to help him decide which wood would last longer. Jag also was inquisitive about what type of metal screws to use on his project. We discussed the hardware and decided to purchase (Fig.2) DeckMate Star Flat-Head Wood Deck Screws #10 2-1/2 inch.  
Fig.2 DeckMate star flat-head 
wood deck screws
Step 4: We decided that the treated 2x6 lumber would be perfect against rot and last a long time in this dry California climate. Pressure-Treated Hem-Fir Lumber is for above ground use and is treated with Copper azole. This lumber has been stained Brown and is paintable. The Home Depot provides a Material Safety Data Sheet for treated lumber.
Step 5: As the raised garden is being assembled, the cut portion of the treated lumber will need to be painted with a Copper-Green Wood Preservative. This preservative protects the wood against the weather and wood eating insects. The Home Depot also provides a Material Safety Data Sheet for your review. 
Step 6: Floor assembly: Fig.3 shows that by placing the lumber on the floor, Jag saw how to secure the corner with two 2x6 lumber and where to drill the wood deck screws into the corner braces.
Fig.3 The assembly #1
Step 7: Floor assembly: First layer. Fig.4 shows that placing the first row on the floor showed him how to assemble the sides of the garden bed.
Fig.4 The assembly #2
Step 8: Floor assembly: First and second layer: Fig.5 shows that the wood was placed on top of each side showing Jag how to build up the walls.
Fig.5 Wood stacked second layer
Step 9: Fig.6 shows the 2x6x4 stacked on The Home Depot lumber cart. Fig.7 and fig.8 shows that each piece was marked to help Jag in the assembly. Fig.9 shows the wood cuts of treated lumber are ready to make his raised garden.
Fig.6 stacked ready to assemble 2x6x4
Fig.7 Long pieces
Fig.8 Short pieces

Fig.9 The project
Step 10: Before the project was finished, Jag had to cut the top piece of the project into 45° degree cut using a Miter Box. After the cuts the top pieces were applied with a Cordless Screwdriver driving in the deck screws into the walls. Fig.10 through fig.12 shows different views of the finished raised garden. All that needs to be done is planting the flowers for Jag's wife. 
Fig.10 Side view finished product
Fig.11 Top view finished product
Fig.12 Job finished finished product
Jag's e-mail note: Thanks you so much for your help today at Home Depot. Attached are the pictures of finished product. It came out really good, Jag. Fig. 10 through fig.12 are the three pictures sent by Jag for this post. 



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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Saturday, November 8, 2014

How to Make a Dog Ramp

Tape measure
By Gary Boutin
Assembled by Bret

Supplies and Tools:  
Claw hammer
Carpeting outdoor tan

Cordless drill or electric Drill
Drill bit 1/16 (.0625) drill bit 
Leather work gloves
Level 4-ft
Plywood 3/8 inch interior
Measurement tape

Utility razor knife
Stapler-hand

Arrow fastener T50 crown galvanized steel staples 
Wood: 2x2s, 2x3s, 1x2s
Wood glue

Wood screws

Bret and his mother came to The Home Depot for a special dog ramp project. He came to the Anaheim Super Store - Lumber/Building Materials area for information and exact cuts for his project. For more information about the Anaheim Super Store please read this article brought to you by the Orange County Register. This article was written by Lisa Liddane of the Orange County Register and Published on April 4, 2012 Updated: Aug. 21, 201. If you enjoyed her article on The Home Depot Superstore please click on her name for more articles written by Lisa Liddane.

This post shows the ten steps to assembling a special dog ramp.

Step 1: Arrive at your nearest Home Depot and talk to an associate.  If your project involves working with wood, ask for the location of Lumber/Building Materials.
Step 2: Explain the lumber associate about your project. For this post Bret had a written plan of the dog ramp and he had already measure the available space between his closet and his bed.
Step 3: He looked at several plywood pieces and wanted to know what the advantage of each. Bret was concerned that his 20 lb. dog might be uneasy if the plywood ramp moved or bounced at all. 
Step 4: We decided on interior 3/8 plywood, cut at two length. Fig.1 shows the first of Bret's pictures of the parts purchased at The Home Depot.
Fig.1 The parts
Step 5: Each piece was cut per Bret's plan: To include two pieces of 3/8 inch plywood, four 2x3x30" legs located on the right of this picture. The middle ramp would need additional supports and was supported using Douglas Fir 1x2x8 also cut in 30" lengths.
Step 6: Interior carpeting was purchase to finish the project.
Step 7: Purchase and bring the supplies home. 
Step 8: Assembly; written directions of the project.
  1. Pre-drill using a drill with a 1/16 (.0625) drill bit in each leg in the center and in the plywood pieces. Please review the size chart.
  2. Assemble each leg with wood glue and use a Cordless Screwdriver to drive the wood screws for each corner area. This process must be done for the top only. When all four legs are placed on the top level use the level to make sure the surface is level with the floor. 
  3. Carpeting: Now use a utility razor knife to measure and cut the carpeting for each area of the dog ramp. This will take some time to cut the carpeting in a rectangular form. Be careful not to cut any fingers.
  4. Stapling: Now use an Staple Gun with T50 steel staples and start stapling the carpeting into the plywood. Staple all three sections.
  5. Middle frame support: Between the middle section and the start section add the 1x2x30" wood supports to add support to the plywood. Attach these the same way as the legs were attached. Pre-drill the holes in the 1x2s and use a cordless screwdriver to insert the wood screws through the 2x2s and into the plywood. This needs to be done on both sides. Share the ramp support between the middle section and the last section. Use the final 1x2s to support the beginning entrance. Job finished. 
Step 9: Final views: Fig.2 and fig.4 shows the side view of Roxy's ramp. Fig.5 shows frontal view that will allow Roxy climb to the bed.
Fig.2 Side view

Fig.3 Partial side and front view
Fig.4 Front view
Step 10: Fig.5 shows the final placement of the dog ramp. In Bret's own words "I am happy to say that it turned out great and it works just as well. My dog, Roxy, loves it and uses it all the time."
Fig.5  Roxy's safely on Bret's bed
Note: All picture were taken by Bret for this post.


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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-