How to Repair Dining Room Ceiling Leak - Part 1 of 2 - Ceiling Repair

Fig.1 Wet ceiling 
from leaking copper pipe

By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:
500-watt lamps (3)
Drywall 36 inch by 36 inch
Drywall knives
Drywall sander (manual)
Drywall saw 
Drywall screws coarse 1-1/4 inch
Gloves (protect hands)
Joint Compound Fast set 20 minutes
Ladder 6 feet
Sanding screens
Wall tape (paper)

Mr. Johnson lives in Norco, California. He had called a plumber to repair a leaking copper pipe. The damaged pipe had been leaking for a long time and the entire ceiling was wet and soggy. The local plumber punctured the ceiling just enough to repair the copper pipe and the ABS sewage pipe. Two pipes were leaking, the copper pressure tee pipe, and an ABS drain pipe. The copper pressure tee pipe was replaced and soldered. The ABS pipe was not glued in place and was loose at the union. The plumber managed to pull it apart and insert ABS cement inside the pipe. This pipe was not under pressure like the copper pipe so repairs were easier. Mr. Johnson called my repair service to repair and paint his dining room ceiling. The catch was the job had to be done in one day because the family was leaving to New Mexico the next day.

This post shows the nine steps to quickly repair the dining room ceiling.   

Step 1: Fig.1 shows a little hole in the dining ceiling were the plumber did all of his repairs.  
Step 2: Fig.2 shows a close up of the copper tee that was repaired. Fig.3 through fig.6 shows the wood studs that will be used to pull up the ceiling. 

Fig.2 Copper tee

Fig.3 Wood studs

Fig.4 Another ceiling view

Fig.5  Cutting the corner

Fig.6 Ceiling is apart
from  the wood stud

Step 3: Fig.7 and fig.8 shows the tools for this job. Fig.7 shows painter's tarp placed on the floor to cover the dining room tile. Fig.8 shows a joint compound, yellow mud pan, drywall knives and sanding screens required for this job. 

Note: To make the joint compound dry faster use Westpac Fast Set 20 Lite Setting joint compound. This compound dries hard in 20 minutes.

Fig.7 Tarp the floor

Fig.8 Joint compound, 
texture and tools

Step 4: Fig.9 and fig.10 shows the drywall saw cutting the hole into a square and near wood studs. The studs are important because the ceiling is so wet that it needed to dry out. Placing drywall screws with flat washers will pull up the wet ceiling. Later the washer were removed and new drywall screws were inserted. Luckily this would dry as the new drywall was replaced. Fig.11 shows the new drywall piece cut at 36 inches was easier to put into the ceiling then cutting several pieces of wallboard.

Fig.9 Cuting the 
ceiling square

Fig.10 Cut the black line

Fig.11 New wallboard 
secured to ceiling

Note: While the ceiling area was cut, three 500-watt lamps were placed on the floor to help dry the  ceiling. 

Step 5: Fig.11 shows the wallboard (drywall) has been placed into the ceiling area. Many 1-1/4 inch coarse drywall screws were used to secure the wet drywall to the ceiling studs.
Step 6: Fig.12 and fig.13 the wall has been patched and now is drying. 
Note: Using three 500-watts lamp baked the ceiling patch. 

Fig.12 Wall tape was 
used on all edges

Fig.13 Patch is drying
 now needs sanding

Step 7: Fig.14 and fig.15 shows the addition of joint compound. Now make the ceiling as flat as possible. The last coat was a very light coat to finish the ceiling.

Fig.14 Load up the ceiling

Fig.15 Flatten the joint 
compound using a wall knife

Step 8: Fig.16 shows the ceiling is drying the outer edges are dry and the center part of the patch is still wet.

Fig.16 Patch is drying

Step 9: Fig.17 shows that gloves must be worn when sanding joint compound. Fig.18 shows a hand sander with a sanding screen. Fig.19 shows a drywall (Hook and Loop) pole sander with 120 grit sanding screen aids in making the ceiling flat.

Fig.17 Wear gloves 
lime irritates the skin

Fig.18 Hand sander

Fig.19 Pole Sander

How To Repair a Dining Room Ceiling Leak:

• Part 1 of 2 - Ceiling Repair 
• Part 2 of 2 - Priming and Painting

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

How to Replace Fiberglass and Drywall Near a Water Heater

The drywall knives

By Gary Boutin  
Helpers: Carl N. and David V.               

Supplies and Tools: 
Cordless drills 12 volt and 18 volt 
Drywall knives
Drywall screws - coarse
Electrical plates
Fiberglass rolls R19 
Hammer claw with rubber grip
Hammer staple with extra staples
Mud pan
Joint compound
Paper tape
Paint cans 
Sanding screens
Tool belts  

Mrs. Stone wanted her garage walls repaired. She had the city place a new water heater in her garage, and each step needed to be inspected. The water heater had to replace and fiberglass needed to be installed in the walls. There were three area that needed to be inspected. He needed to inspected the installation of the fiberglass, the installation of  the new sheetrock around the water heater and finely the painting of the garage walls. The painting was going to be done by another contractor.

This post shows the nine steps to replace fiberglass ans drywall  by the water heater. Now the home owner was able to get insurance for the garage.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the new fiberglass rolls R-19 purchased at a warehouse store. Including supplies coarse drywall screws, paper tape, 1/2 inch drywall, joint compound and sanding screens.

Fig.1 Garage fiberglass rolls

Step 2: Fig.2 through fig.8 shows the walls were inspected and repaired of any small wall damage. This includes removing all the nails and staples from the wood studs. This was done to have a smooth surface when the new sheetrock was placed on the wall studs.

Fig.2 Removing nails

Fig.3 Heater wall repair

Step 3: Fig.4 through fig.8 shows Carl placing several metal plates were needed to cover the electrical wires and or water pipes. Some area were sprayed with paint.  

Claw hammer used to remove large nails

Fig.5 Checking existing fiberglass

Fig.6 Carl checking ABS drains pipping

Fig.7 Removing 16D stud nails

Fig.8 Finishing simple repair

Step 4: Fig.9 and fig.10 shows that the installation of the fiberglass into the walls that have no existing fiberglass and staple the edges to the wood studs. Some of the existing fiberglass was too damaged and needed new fiberglass added to the wall.

Fig.9 Fiberglass by water heater

Fig.10 By water heater

Step 5: Fig.11 through fig.12 shows the metal plates are hammered into the studs that protect the electrical wiring inside the wall. The electrical plate prevents a nail or screw from getting herself into any live electrical wiring, or water, drain pipes.

Fig.11 Fiberglass in wall

Fig.12 Adding electrical metal plates

Step 6: Fig.13 shows that some parts of the wall have large ABS pipes in them and its important to know were they are but not put in a screw into the pipe.

Fig.13 Electrical plates

Step 7: Fig.14 through fig.15 shows Carl and David installing wallboard over the new fiberglass. Some of the wallboard are large pieces and some are small pieces. It's like a jigsaw puzzle that both Carl and David had to solve.  

Fig.14 Repair water heater wall

Fig.15 David and Carl work on wall

Step 8: Fig.16 through fig.17 shows Carl doing some special measurements for drywall behind the water heater. Some pieces like fig.18 needed to be measured and cut to fit around the water piping.

Fig.16 Carl at water heater

Fig.17 Carl measuring area around water heater

Fig.18 Custom water heater piece

Step 9: Fig.19 through fig.21 show the wall pieces have their first coat of drywall joint compound. And now the job finished.

Fig.19 Joint compound dried

Fig.20 New wall piece added to wall

Fig.21

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-