Showing posts with label Paper tape. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paper tape. Show all posts

Sunday, March 1, 2015

How to Replace Fiberglass and Drywall Near a Water Heater

The drywall knives
By Gary Boutin  
Helpers: Carl N. and David V.               

Supplies and Tools: 
Cordless drills 12 volt and 18 volt 
Drywall knives
Drywall screws - coarse
Electrical plates
Fiberglass rolls R19 
Hammer claw with rubber grip
Hammer staple with extra staples
Mud pan
Joint compound
Paper tape
Paint cans 
Sanding screens
Tool belts  

Mrs. Stone wanted her garage walls repaired. She had the city place a new water heater in her garage, and each step needed to be inspected. The water heater had to replace and fiberglass needed to be installed in the walls. There were three area that needed to be inspected. He needed to inspected the installation of the fiberglass, the installation of  the new sheetrock around the water heater and finely the painting of the garage walls. The painting was going to be done by another contractor.

This post shows the nine steps to replace fiberglass ans drywall  by the water heater. Now the home owner was able to get insurance for the garage.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the new fiberglass rolls R-19 purchased at a warehouse store. Including supplies coarse drywall screws, paper tape, 1/2 inch drywall, joint compound and sanding screens.
Fig.1 Garage fiberglass rolls

Step 2: Fig.2 through fig.8 shows the walls were inspected and repaired of any small wall damage. This includes removing all the nails and staples from the wood studs. This was done to have a smooth surface when the new sheetrock was placed on the wall studs.
Fig.2 Removing nails

Fig.3 Heater wall repair
Step 3: Fig.4 through fig.8 shows Carl placing several metal plates were needed to cover the electrical wires and or water pipes. Some area were sprayed with paint.  
Claw hammer used to remove large nails

Fig.5 Checking existing fiberglass
Fig.6 Carl checking ABS drains pipping
Fig.7 Removing 16D stud nails
Fig.8 Finishing simple repair
Step 4: Fig.9 and fig.10 shows that the installation of the fiberglass into the walls that have no existing fiberglass and staple the edges to the wood studs. Some of the existing fiberglass was too damaged and needed new fiberglass added to the wall.
Fig.9 Fiberglass by water heater

Fig.10 By water heater
Step 5: Fig.11 through fig.12 shows the metal plates are hammered into the studs that protect the electrical wiring inside the wall. The electrical plate prevents a nail or screw from getting herself into any live electrical wiring, or water, drain pipes.
Fig.11 Fiberglass in wall

Fig.12 Adding electrical metal plates

Step 6: Fig.13 shows that some parts of the wall have large ABS pipes in them and its important to know were they are but not put in a screw into the pipe.
Fig.13 Electrical plates


Step 7: Fig.14 through fig.15 shows Carl and David installing wallboard over the new fiberglass. Some of the wallboard are large pieces and some are small pieces. It's like a jigsaw puzzle that both Carl and David had to solve.  
Fig.14 Repair water heater wall

Fig.15 David and Carl work on wall

Step 8: Fig.16 through fig.17 shows Carl doing some special measurements for drywall behind the water heater. Some pieces like fig.18 needed to be measured and cut to fit around the water piping.
Fig.16 Carl at water heater
Fig.17 Carl measuring area around water heater
Fig.18 Custom water heater piece


Step 9: Fig.19 through fig.21 show the wall pieces have their first coat of drywall joint compound. And now the job finished.
Fig.19 Joint compound dried
Fig.20 New wall piece added to wall
Fig.21



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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-
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Tuesday, December 2, 2014

How to Repair Wall Hit By Oldsmobile - Part 2 of 2 - The Finish

Popping nails
By Gary Boutin 

Supplies and Tools: 
500 Watt drying lamps
Baseboard (wood)
Brads
Brad nailer 
Caulking gun (manual) 
Compressor with 50 ft hose 
Duplex plug 
Drywall 1/2 inch
Drywall knives (floating)
Drywall square
Wall knives
Drywall screws (coarse)
Drywall tape (paper)
Electrical cords 
Joint compound
Latex caulk
Tarps (this one is gray)
Texture (Orange peel) 
Towel or rags (clean)
Utility knife (extra blades) 

George Baker is a used car salesman who live in Chino Hills, California and lives near a golf course. George is a tinkerer and he touches everything he thinks he can repair. He did mention that his mother-in-law had pulled up to far from the driveway and had just touched the bedroom wall. He had tried to push the wall back using 1x4 lumber. When Mrs. Baker arrived home she wanted the damage correctly repaired. Mrs Baker had removed the wood support when I arrived and large 16D nails were still on the bedroom walls.

This post shows the six steps on how to finish the bedroom wall repair job. 

Step 1: Fig.1 and fig.2 shows the new wall board is drying and this part of the job is done. Notice its dark outside.
Fig.1 Job drying
Fig.2 Joint compound is dry
Step 2: Fig.3 shows the left over wallboard from the job.
Fig.3 Left-over drywall (wallboard)
Step 3: Fig.4 shows the compressor that will be used with a brad nailer to place the existing baseboard over the new repairs.
Fig.4 Air compressor
Step 4: Fig.5 and fig.6 shows the brad nailer attaching the baseboard against the wall.
Fig.5 Attaching baseboard
Fig.6 Attaching the corner
Step 5: Fig.7 and fig.8 shows the application of latex caulk to the top of the baseboards. This give the baseboard a more finished look and prevent insects from laying their eggs behind the baseboards.
Fig.7 Latex caulk
Fig.8 Caulking corners
Step 6: Fig.9 shows a clean towel removing excess caulking from the walls.
Fig.9 Removing caulk

How to Repair a Wall Hit By an Oldsmobile:



  • Part 1 of 2 - The setup
  • Part 2 of 2 - The Finish

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    How to Repair Wall Hit By an Oldsmobile - Part 1 of 2 - The setup

    Wallboard nails outward
    By Gary Boutin

    Supplies and Tools: 
    Drywall Screws 
    Drywall square
    Duplex plug
    Electrical cords
    Joint compound
    Paper tape
    Sheet rock screws
    Tarps (this one is gray)
    Utility knife
    Wall board (drywall) 1/2 inch 
    Wall knives
    Wood Planer

    George Baker is a used car salesman who live in Chino Hills, California and lives in a studio cottage overlooking a golf course overrun by flying golf balls. George is a tinkerer and he touches everything he believe that he can repair. He did mention that his mother-in-law had pulled up to far from the driveway and had just touched the bedroom wall. He had pushed the wall back in with 1x4 lumber to prevent the drywall from falling into the room. When Mrs. Baker arrived home she demanded that he repaired the damage correctly. Mrs. Baker had removed the wood support when I arrived but large 16D nails were on the bedroom walls.

    This post shows the six steps on how to repair the damaged wall studs and apply the new drywall to the bedroom.  

    Step 1: Fig.1 shows the bedroom studs were wet and had been pushed inward by the car. The wood wall studs were over 1/2 an inch over the bottom plate (sole plate). The studs needed to be replaced but George was against that so another method was used to correct the problem. 
    Fig.1 Damages
    Step 2: Fig.2 shows the damaged wall board was removed along with the baseboards. Notice on the right side over 1/2 inch of the wall board was removed, to provide support for the new wall board to be installed. Fig.3 shows a side view of the damaged bedroom wall.
    Fig.2 Damaged wallboard removed

    Fig.3 Side view
    Step 3: Fig.4 shows the live electrical metal box that was completely removed from the Oldsmobile hitting the wall. It might have been removed by George thinking that he could repair it.
    Fig.4 Electrical box
    Step 4: Fig.5 shows a wood planer was used to remove off half an inch of wood so the wallboard would align correctly with the rest of the wall and not cause a bump. 
    Fig.5 Wood planner
    Step 5: Fig.6 shows the wall board was replaced except around the electrical box. The metal box was re-install to the stud using sheet rock screws. The electrical wires were removed from the box and replaced after the box was installed. The duplex plug was replaced because each plug was damaged. Below the utility knife is cutting the wallboard for the perfect fit.
    Fig.6 Electrical duplex

    Step 6: Fig.7 shows the final view of the wallboard around the electrical plug. The joint compound combined with paper tape (below) had to be applied to the wall. Fig.8 shows the a second layer was floated using the wall knives (below) and these knives (large scrapers) molded the joint compound to make the wall flat.
    Drywall paper tape
    Fig.7 Duplex wall is flat
    Fig.8 Wall Knives 
    (large scrapers)
    How To Repair a Wall Hit By an Oldsmobile:



  • Part 1 of 2 - The setup
  • Part 2 of 2 - The Finish



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    • Cookie Alert: European Union laws requires that you know that this blog uses cookies. If you are concerned about this please click here to see how Google uses this information.

    Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-
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