Showing posts with label pliers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pliers. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 16, 2016

How to Repair a Bissell® 801004 Carpet Cleaner - Part 6 of 9 - Gluing and Attaching Brass Sleeve

Bissell® 8010 
Carpet Cleaner
By Gary Boutin


Tools and Supplies:
Anvil or Flat Bench Surface
Electrical Tape 
Needlenose Pliers
Screwdriver Flat Tip
Titebond® Super Gel Glue 

This post shows the six steps of applying adhesive on Bissell® Flow Base and attaching the brass sleeve to the clear vinyl tubes. 

1
This picture shows the anvil which the flat surface. The Bissell® Base Flow Indicator Base and the brass compression sleeve. On the right is the Titebond® Super Gel Glue adhesive.
2
Next, apply the Titebond® Super Gel Glue adhesive to the inside of the Bissell® Flow Indicator Base and insert the brass compression sleeve. Use a Flat Tipped Screwdriver to hold on the top of the brass compression sleeve. The tip must be held a minimum 15-seconds.
3
The Bissell® Clear Vinyl Tube on the right is the new repair and will be inserted on the brass sleeve. The one on the left will be inserted on its plastic nipple.
4
Use Needlenose Pliers to press the Bissell Clamps® open and push over the end of the tube. Check to make sure both Bissell Clamps are in the correct location on the Bissell Flow Indicator Base.
5
Here is a side view of the repairs. Notice the Bissel Clamps® are at the top of the hoses.
6
The Bissell® Tube Clear Vinyl hoses were kinked at the bottom of the Black Bissell® Hood Main Housing motor housing. Wrapping electrical tape around the top  of the Bissell® Hood Main Housing will keep the hoses in place. Next two repairs will be the Right Elevator Lever Arm and Bissell® Hood Main Housing.


How To Repair a Bissell 801004 Carpet Cleaner:


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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

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Wednesday, December 30, 2015

How to Create and Install Xenon Pucks into a Bedroom Light Tier - Part 2 of 8 - The Tools

Fig.1 Ryobi drill
By Gary Boutin
  
Tools and Supplies: 
18-Volt Ryobi Cordless Screwdriver
Aviation Tin Snips
Bit holder with Phillip bit
Claw hammer
Commercial Electric® 3 Light Xenon Task
          and Accent Light Kit (surface mount)
Electrical tape (black)
Galvanized flat sheet metal (36 in by 48 in)
Jewelers Precision Screwdriver Set
Marking pen (any color)
Metal Hole saw kit
Nail setter (pointed end)
Needlenose pliers
Scissors
Spring clips (small)
Ryobi Titanium Drill bit 1/16 inch
Ryobi Titanium Drill bit 3/8 inch

Early in our marriage we received a bed set with a light tier over the bed. It had side drawers tiers tall enough to hold over the mirror a bridge that housed 3-incandescent lights that could be dimmable from a switch within the headboard. Over time the electrical wiring started to crack and was deemed unsafe. This posts shows the tools needed for this project.  

This post shows eleven steps that shows all the tools needed to get this project finished.  

Step 1: Fig.1 through fig.3 shows the 18-Volt Ryobi cordless screwdriver with 2-inch circular metal hole saw kit, aviation snip, and #8 coarse metal screws. These tools will be used to drill a hole in the galvanized steel which is the foundation of the lamp.
Fig.2 Sheet metal
with snips
Fig.3 Metal screws
Step 2: Fig.4 and fig.5 shows a Ryobi cordless screwdriver with Dewalt 3-inch circular saw. These tools will be used to cut through the galvanized steel to allow the electrical plug to go through the middle to the light base. The spring will hold the base in place.
Fig.4 Circular saw
Fig.5 Spring clamps

Step 3: Fig.6 shows a claw hammer and a nail setter. These tools will be used to place a screw hole in the galvanized base plate.

Fig.6 Hammer 
and nail setter
Step 4: Fig.7 shows the a Ryobi titanium drill set, will be used to drill through the sheet metal.
Fig.7 Titanium set
Step 5: Fig.8 shows a screw organizer. This kit stored the #8 sheet metal screws.
Fig.8 Screws chest
Step 6: Fig.9 shows a bit holder. The bit holder will hold the drills, and Phillip bit to cut and screw into the sheet metal to hold the lamp in place.

Fig.9 Bit holder
Step 7: Fig.10 shows emery cloth used as sand paper for metal to remove any sharp metal shards.
Fig.10 Emory cloth
Step 8: Fig.11 jewelers precision screwdriver set.
Fig.11 Screwdriver
Step 9: Fig.12 and fig.13 shows a generic metal hole saw kit that includes the arbor and the base nut to make the hole saw. This kit will be used to cut through the metal lamp.
Fig.12 Generic Hole
Saw Kit
Fig.13 Harbor and nut
plus hole saw
Step 10: Fig.14 shows black vinyl electric tape. The tape will be used to prevent the lamp wires from being damaged. Fig.15 shows the Xenon® light kit.
Fig.14 Vinyl tape

Fig.15 Commercial 
Electric® Xenon kit

    How to Create and Install Xenon Pucks into a Bedroom Light Tier:

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      Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

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      Wednesday, October 21, 2015

      How to Rewire a Lamp Part 1 of 2 - Taking Apart the Lamp

      Fig.1 Westinghouse 
      Make-A-Lamp Kit
      By Gary Boutin

      Tools and supplies 
      Flat head screwdriver
      Lamp kit
      Pliers
      Electrical tape

      I inherited this lamp from my mother. The lamp is about 15 years old and it doesn't match anything in the bedroom. But it's special to me and worth saving.

      This post shows the eleven steps on how to take apart a lamp.

      Step 1: This Westinghouse Make-A-Lamp Kit that contains everything needed to rewire a lamp. This lamp kit was purchased from The Home Depot. Fig.2 shows the lamp kit repair logo.
      Fig.2
      Westinghouse 
      Make-A-Lamp Kit
      Step 2: Fig.3 show the lamp interior, the bulb base rotated and the electrical cord was twisted inside the lamp. Remove the finial (white porcelain screw) to release the lamp shade. Fig.4 shows a lamp harp that holds up the white shade and white porcelain finial ball. Squeeze both sides of the lamp harp and pull up the harp sleeves to remove it from the lamp body. Harp Sleeves are located at the bottom of the harp.
      Fig.3 Finial porcelain ball
      Fig.4 Harp
      Step 3: Fig.5 shows this old damaged brass lamp socket comes with a decorative key to turn the lamp on or off. The decorative white plastic below the lamp socket will be removed and not reused.
      Fig.5 Brass lamp socket
      Step 4: Fig.6 shows the lamp socket seal needed to be cut to remove the top part of the socket. The brass arms coming on the sides are the harp base that is attached to the neck of the lamp. Fig.7 shows that the lamp socket was pulled from the lamp showing an inner cardboard sleeve.
      Fig.6 Lamp socket seal
      Fig.7 Lamp socket 
      has two layers
      Step 5: Fig.8 and fig.9 shows that once the exterior brass covering has been removed, the electrical wire has been attached by two screws. Using a flat head screwdriver turn counterclockwise to unscrew the metal screws releasing the electrical wires.  

      Note: As a safety measure the electrical cable has a knot to prevent the electrical cord from being pulled out of the lamp socket.
      Fig.8 Electrical Leads
      Fig.9 Wire knot
      Step 6: Fig.10 shows that underneath the lamp socket is a wire knot needed to be removed to get the wires out of the lamp. Fig.11 shows the old lamp socket ready for the trash can.
      Fig.10 Remove wires
      Fig.11 Internal lamp socket
      Step 7: Fig.12 shows the twisted electrical cord still inside the lamp.
      Fig.12 Twisted cord
      Step 8: Fig.13 shows remove the electrical leads. Remove the lamp wire by pulling from the bottom of the lamp. Fig.14 shows the bottom of the lamp, next peel of the cardboard exposing the lamp cord.
      Fig.13 Electrical cord
      Fig.14 Peeling cardboard
      Step 9: Fig.15 shows the bottom of the lamp socket that has an internal threads attached to the lamp neck. Fig.16 shows the lamp post with male threads (external threads). Take apart the lamp neck by unscrewing the brass screw above the white decorative neck.
      Fig.15 lamp neck/harp bottom
      Fig.16 External neck
      Step 10: Fig.17 shows the vase cap with a cork washer and fig.18 shows the porcelain lamp base.
      Fig.17 Vase Cap with 
      cork washer
      Fig.18 Porcelain Lamp Base
      Step 11: Fig.19 shows a side view of the porcelain lamp base.
      Fig.19 Side of lamp

      How to Rewire a Lamp


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      Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-2015
       

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      Monday, March 23, 2015

      How to Replace Door Shoe

      12 Volt Cordless
      By Gary Boutin

      Supplies and Tools:  
      Cordless screwdriver with Phillip bit Door 
      shoe replacement - Brown  
      Drill bit 1/4 inch 
      Pliers 
      Razor knife  
      Silicone Seal-Clear 

      While visiting a friend from Wrightwood, California we noticed that his door shoe on his pre-hung door needed to be replaced. This is a simple job, but needs to be done every couple of years, if the threshold has direct contact with the door shoe. This door shoe rides on top of the threshold plate and together they serve to keep unwanted dirt and moisture (water) from entering the home. This shoe was worn out and little strands of rubber could be seen from underneath the door and threshold plate. In higher country where moisture could damage the flooring of this home. Its one more maintenance item that needs to be addressed when noticed.

      This post shows the nine steps on how to remove a door shoe on a pre-hung door.  

      Step 1: Fig.1 shows the damaged door shoe being slipped off.  
      Fig.1 Door shoe
      Step 2: Fig.2 shows before the door shoe is removed the door spring stop needs to be taken off the door. Fig.3 shows that grabbing the door spring with one hand and twist left. Completely removed the spring from stop shoe and remove the screw in the middle of the stop.
      Fig.2 Grab the spring
      Fig.3 Spring removed
      Step 3: Fig.4       shows a cordless screwdriver with Phillip bit removing metal pan head screws from the older door shoe. When this door shoe was placed it was in the middle of winter, the door shoe kit came with small button Phillip screws, we decided to use pan head screws to give the shoe a large and more secured attachment to the door.
      Fig.4 Remove screws
      Step 4: Fig.5       shows a razor knife to remove the seal at the edge of the door shoe and the door. At both side of the door is the top part of the door shoe.  
      Fig.5 Razor knife
      Step 5:       Fig.6       shows that the plastic door shoe (above top right) is being pulled off the bottom of the metal door. Fig.7 shows the bottom of the door without the door shoe in place. Fig.8 shows the dirt and water at the bottom of the door shoe which meant the door seal was broken and the water went inside the door seal. In this case it didn't matter because the door was made of metal but some doors are made of wood and then it would mater because the water would be absorbed into the door.
      Fig.6 Shoe pulled off
      Fig.7 No shoe on door
      Fig.8 Dirt and water


      Step 6: Fig.9 shows the pan head screws being replaced after a new door shoes was being replaced. The edges are so tight that the door shoe itself mold itself to the new door.
      Fig.9 Screws being placed
      Step 7: Fig.10 shows after the door shoe is in place the door spring is the last part to be placed.
      Fig.10 Door spring stop
      Step 8: Fig.11 shows another screw was placed by the door spring. A clear silicone seal was placed above the door edge.
      Fig.11 Spring Screw

      Step 9: Fig.12 shows the job is finished.
      Fig.12 Door shoe installed

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      Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

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