Showing posts with label cordless screwdriver with Phillip bit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cordless screwdriver with Phillip bit. Show all posts

Monday, October 17, 2016

How to Install an Munchkin™ Auto-Close Metal Gate

This Munchkin™  Auto-Close Metal Gate was purchased at a pet warehouse store.
Fig.1 Munchkin™
Auto-Close Metal Gate
By Gary Boutin

Tools and Supplies: 
Auto Close Metal Gate By Munchkin™
Cordless Screwdriver with Phillip Bit
Measurement tape

A friend in our condominium complex wanted a new dog door installed in her kitchen. She purchased Auto Close Metal Gate By Munchkin™ at our local pet warehouse store. She wanted to keep her Miniature Schnauzer out of the dog food. Both of them had a realized how easy the door to the pantry was to open. All they had to do was press with their paws to open the door. Then they could eat all day while their master was doing errands.

This post shows the six steps for installed a Munchkin™ Auto Close Metal Gate.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the Auto Close Metal Gate by Munchkin. This gate works very well to keep little children and very smart dogs out of the kitchen. Fig.2 shows the gate has a supply list and all the parts were in the box and easy to identify. Fig.3 shows the gate has many templates
These are the parts needed to install the Munchkin™ Auto-Close Metal Gate
Fig.2 The parts
This gate has several templates for the installation process.
Fig.3 Gate Templates
Step 2:  Templates: Fig.4 and fig.5 shows installation templates, that help in the installing of this gate.
This is a sample  of the templates that shows were to install the hinges
Fig.4 Templates
This is the template and the door hinge template
Fig.5 
Templates
Step 3: Fig.6 shows one of the preformed latch/hinge that will hold the gate in place. Fig.7 through fig.9 shows the pads with double stick tape on each closing pads for the latch side of the gate. This protects the kitchen wall.

This is a hinge that has been installed for the gate
Fig.6
This shows two latch pads for the gate
Fig.7 Wall pads
Each latch pad has tape that can be applied to the wall
Fig.8 Double tape
To remove the protective film peel it off the pad and apply it to the wall
Fig.9 Peel to apply to wall
Step 4: Installation: Fig.10 shows the location of the bottom latch, fig.11 shows the top latch and fig.12 shows how each hole was drilled for the metal screws.
This pad is installed on the bottom of the kitchen floor wall
Fig.10
To make sure the pad is secure press the pad against the wall
Fig.11
If a pilot hole is drilled then the wall will not get damaged.
Fig.12
Step 5: Fig.13 shows that the closing pad can be adjusted with a special wrench. Keep this wrench handy it help to keep the gate level. Fig.14 shows a level was used to make sure the gate was level. Fig.15 shows the hinge side of the gate is completely installed.
Use this special gate wrench to adjust the gate
Fig.13 Wrench adjustment
This gate is being leveled
Fig.14 Leveling gate
This gate hinge side is ready to be used.
Fig.15 Hinge side
Step 6: Fig.16 shows the game is fully installed and ready to be tested by Miniature Schnauzers. We went outside and tested the gate and the dogs were still in the hallway waiting patiently to get to the kitchen area. This job is finished. The installation time was less than thirty minutes.
This gate is finished and ready to be checked out by the dogs.
Fig.16 Completed gate

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Monday, March 23, 2015

How to Replace Door Shoe

12 Volt Cordless
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:  
Cordless screwdriver with Phillip bit Door 
shoe replacement - Brown  
Drill bit 1/4 inch 
Pliers 
Razor knife  
Silicone Seal-Clear 

While visiting a friend from Wrightwood, California we noticed that his door shoe on his pre-hung door needed to be replaced. This is a simple job, but needs to be done every couple of years, if the threshold has direct contact with the door shoe. This door shoe rides on top of the threshold plate and together they serve to keep unwanted dirt and moisture (water) from entering the home. This shoe was worn out and little strands of rubber could be seen from underneath the door and threshold plate. In higher country where moisture could damage the flooring of this home. Its one more maintenance item that needs to be addressed when noticed.

This post shows the nine steps on how to remove a door shoe on a pre-hung door.  

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the damaged door shoe being slipped off.  
Fig.1 Door shoe
Step 2: Fig.2 shows before the door shoe is removed the door spring stop needs to be taken off the door. Fig.3 shows that grabbing the door spring with one hand and twist left. Completely removed the spring from stop shoe and remove the screw in the middle of the stop.
Fig.2 Grab the spring
Fig.3 Spring removed
Step 3Fig.4
shows a cordless screwdriver with Phillip bit removing metal pan head screws from the older door shoe. When this door shoe was placed it was in the middle of winter, the door shoe kit came with small button Phillip screws, we decided to use pan head screws to give the shoe a large and more secured attachment to the door.
Fig.4 Remove screws
Step 4Fig.5
shows a razor knife to remove the seal at the edge of the door shoe and the door. At both side of the door is the top part of the door shoe.  

Fig.5 Razor knife
Step 5
Fig.6
shows that the plastic door shoe (above top right) is being pulled off the bottom of the metal door. Fig.7 shows the bottom of the door without the door shoe in place. Fig.8 shows the dirt and water at the bottom of the door shoe which meant the door seal was broken and the water went inside the door seal. In this case it didn't matter because the door was made of metal but some doors are made of wood and then it would mater because the water would be absorbed into the door.

Fig.6 Shoe pulled off
Fig.7 No shoe on door
Fig.8 Dirt and water


Step 6Fig.9 shows the pan head screws being replaced after a new door shoes was being replaced. The edges are so tight that the door shoe itself mold itself to the new door.
Fig.9 Screws being placed
Step 7Fig.10 shows after the door shoe is in place the door spring is the last part to be placed.
Fig.10 Door spring stop
Step 8Fig.11 shows another screw was placed by the door spring. A clear silicone seal was placed above the door edge.
Fig.11 Spring Screw

Step 9Fig.12 shows the job is finished.
Fig.12 Door shoe installed

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Wednesday, January 28, 2015

How to Replace Second Floor Hallway Ceiling Lamp

Fig.1 Troubleshot
By Gary Boutin

Supplies and Tools:  
Copper wiring for grounding lamp
Cordless screwdriver with Phillip bit
Ladder 8-foot 
Metal bracket
Metal screws with self drilling tips
Plans
Replacement lamp
Copper wire used for grounding   

Jo Walsh an old friend wanted his lamp changed from square to round.  He wanted all ther lamps to match the other changes in his home. 

This post shows the eight steps on how to replace square to a round lamp.  

Step 1: Fig.1 shows a eight foot ladder to troubleshoot the ceiling lamp.
Step 2: Fig.2 shows the box with the replacement lamp.
Fig.2 Replacement lamp
Step 3: Fig.3 and fig.4 shows the plans written on site to replace the lamp.
Fig.3 The plan
Fig.4 Plan wires
Step 4: Fig.5 and fig.6 shows the old lamp needed to have the wiring re-routed to the new lamp. But first the lamp innards needed to be removed.
Fig.5 Old wiring box
Fig.6 Electrical wires
Step 5: Fig.7 shows a metal bracket is installed on one side of the metal lamp and in Fig.8 shows the bracket is permanently installed. 
Fig.7 Bracket
Fig.8 Finished bracket
Step 6: Fig.9 and fig.10 shows two-3 inch metal screws were placed in the metal band to hold the new lamp base. The copper wires from the old lamp were attached to the new metal bracket for grounding.
Fig.9 Ground wire
Fig.10 Ground to metal fram3e
Step 7: Fig.11 shows the new lamp wiring. There are two holes drilled within the lamp through the fiberglass and the foil that allows for long screws to handle the base. Fig.12 shows that the fluorescent lamp were placed instead of incandescent lamps for less heat.
Fig.11 New wiring
Fig.12 New bulbs
Step 8: Fig.13 show the job is done.
Fig.13 The job is finished


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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

How to Install a Kichen Under Counter Radio

Fig.1 Plans
By Gary Boutin

Parts and Supplies:
Cordless screwdriver with Phillips bit
Tape measure
Template kit with new radio

Mrs. Appleton noticed my work building a retaining wall. She stopped by and asked if I could install an under counter radio. 

This post shows the nine steps to installing a radio under a kitchen cabinet.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the template for placing the under-counter radio.
Step 2: Fig.2 shows the measurement of the left holes.
Fig.2 Left holes
Step 3: Fig.3 shows the measurement of the right holes.
Fig.3 Measurement
Step 4: Fig.4 shows the spacers and the machine screws that will be used to mount the radio.
Fig.4 Machine screws and spacers
Step 5: Fig.5 shows spacers on the under-counter radio. The screws will go through the wood cabinet and through the plastic spacers to the inner-nut in the radio.
Fig.5 Spacers
Step 6: Fig.6 shows Ryobi 12 Volt Cordless drill with Bit Holder that will be used to drill the holes in the cabinet and drive the screws into the radio.
Fig.6 Ryobi cordless 12 volt drill
Step 7: Fig.7 shows the machine screws being placed into the radio.
Fig.7 placing screw
Step 8: Fig.8 shows the handyman holding the radio from the bottom while inserting the machine screws inside the kitchen cabinet.
Fig.8 holding radio
Step 9: Fig.9 shows placing the final screws into the under-counter radio.


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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-