How to Repair a Wood Dresser Drawer Guide

Fig.1 The tools

By Gary Boutin
 
Supplies and Tools: 
3/4 X 3/4 hard Birch wood
1x2x4 Douglas Fir 
Chisel wood 1-inch
Cordless circular saw Makita
Cordless 9-volt batteries Makita 
Cordless screwdriver and Phillip Bit
Drill Electric
Electrical cords 
Glue acid brush

Electrical screwdriver

Spade bits 1/2 inch countersink
Spring clamps - large and medium
Pan head screws
Washers metal chrome
Wood bench (2)
Wood glue
Wood pencil #2
Wood planner - electric

James Tu called to repair an old wood dresser that was given to him when he became a United States citizen. He knew the dresser did not have any monetary value but he wanted it repaired. I advised him to go to a furniture repair company but he wanted to repair it today if possible. This is a temporary repair of a wooden dresser.

This post shows the fourteen steps on how to make a wood drawer guide for an antique dresser.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the tools needed for this repair. All tools listed above. 
Step 2: Fig.2 and fig.3 shows the old drawer guide made of wood from an antique wood dresser. It appeared to be a T-shaped guide and the side are not square for the metal slide.

Fig.2 Damaged wood 
drawer guide

Fig.3 Slide worn

Step 3: Fig.4 shows the old drawer guide was worn off by the drawer metal slide. The metal slide slid over the wood T-guide to open and close the drawer. According to Mr. Tu the metal slide was installed a few years earlier by another handyman.

Fig.4 Drawer splintered

Step 4: Fig.5 shows the underneath the middle drawer was a metal slide and the entrance of the drawer is at the bottom of picture. Fig.6 shows the end of the drawer were the metal piece is supported by the back drawer piece.

Fig.5 Drawer slide

Fig.6 Drawer other end

Step 5: Fig.7 shows the steps of how the wood drawer slide was made. By placing two pieces together the wood slide was made.

Fig.7 Making the slide

Step 6: Fig.8 shows an electric wood planer that will be used to removed wood to make the wood drawer slide.

Fig.8 Wood planner

Step 7: Fig.9 shows a Makita radial saw cutting the 3/4 by 3/4 hardwood piece. This piece will fit inside the metal slide. Fig.10 and fig.11 shows the Makita radial Saw cutting each piece of the drawer slide to size. The wood drawer guide is made from two pieces of wood.

Fig.9 Sizing the rail

Fig.10 Cutting bottom rail

Fig.11 Cutting drawer top slide

Step 8: Fig.12 shows the assembled drawer guide without the notch assembly.

Fig.12 Drawer guide

Step 9: Fig.13 shows a notch (cut out) had to on the guide so the attachment could be placed inside the dresser. 

Fig.13 Guide notch

Step 10: Fig.14 shows the wood glue was placed on the wood guide with spring clamps were used to hold the pieces together.

Fig.14 Spring clamps

Step 11: Fig.15 through fig.20 shows the process of creating the hole for the pan head screw into the wood guide that will allow the drawer into the cabinet.

1. Fig.15 shows the hole is drilled into the guide.
2. Fig.16 shows the hole is countersunk to fit the edges of the pan head screw.
3. Fig.17 shows a 1/2 inch spade bits countersink is started.
   
4. Fig.18 shows the hole is not deep enough.
5. Fig.19 show that the guide is clamped in place using spring clamps. 
6. Fig.20 shows the guide is notched and the hole is ready to used.

Fig.15 Cordless drill 
create screw hole

Fig.16 After the hole 
countersink the screw

Fig.17 1/2 inch
 countersink

Fig.18 Not deep enough

Fig.19 Spring clamps 
hold guide

Fig.20 Ready to use

Step 12: Once the guide was glues together a pan head screw was used to give the wood guide for strength. Fig.21 and fig.23 shows the transition of the pan head screw being attached to the wood guide.

Fig.21 Insert screw

Fig.22 Place screw

Fig.23 Remove 
and re-insert

Step 13: Fig.24 shows the testing the new drawer guide with the metal drawer slide. It fits but its too long like in fig.25. Fig.26 shows the finished wood guide being inserted into the metal glide.

Fig.24 Drawer slide and Wood guide

Fig.25 T-guide fits but its too long

Fig.26 Finished guide

Step 14: Fig.27 shows this is the new wood drawer guide inserted back into the dresser. Fig.28 shows the dresser now repaired.

Fig.27 Inserted 
into cabinet

Fig.28 Dresser repaired

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

How to Make Backyard Wood Blind to Cover a Hole in Block Fence

Fig.1 The blind

By Gary Boutin 

Supplies and Tools:
1x6x8 redwood Tongue and Groove (2)
2x2x8 redwood lattice (2)
Clamps 
Compound saw or hand saw 
Deck screws 1 1/4 in.
Lattice beige vinyl cap molding 
                      3/4 in. x 1 in. x 4 ft
Tapcon polymer plated steel hex-washer-head indoor/outdoor 
                  concrete anchors 1/4 in. x 2-3/4 in.
Titebond glue 
Wood drill bit
Wood glue

Jim came to The Home Depot to place a wooden shutter from his backyard block wall. Some time ago he had a hole made in his block wall so he could see the valley from his home. Now the green valleys are filled with new homes. He came to the Anaheim Super Store - Lumber/Building Materials area for information and wanted information on redwood screen.

This post shows the seven steps to assembling block wall blind.

Step 1: Arrive at your nearest The Home Depot and talk to an associate.  If your project involves working with wood ask for the location of Lumber/Building Materials.
Step 2: Fig.1 shows a picture that Jim brought to me to explain the problem. The brown area is the area of concern. The Home Depot carries Douglas Fir tongue and groove will be used across the expanse of the missing block.

Step 3: Fig.2 shows that Jim decided to purchase 1x6x8 redwood tongue and groove. He had both boards cut in half by a lumber associate. Below the wood is being cut to size.

Fig.2 Cutting the planks

Step 4: Now Jim wanted an easy but good looking wood edge to lay on the brick wall. I showed him the mill works area but none fitted correctly against the Tongue and Groove planks. I brought him to the garden area where the 2x2 plastic channel were being stored. 
Step 5: Fig.3 shows we decided on using beige vinyl cap molding. The planks once glued would be surrounded by the molding. It worked perfectly except the sides of the wood screen. Another molding was cut to accommodate the sides of the wood screen.

Fig.3 Laying all the planks 
and cap molding on the floor

Step 6: Fig.4 shows the final assembly to show Jim how to assemble the project.

Fig.4 Final check

Step 7: Blind instructions:

1. The glue to use on the edges of the tongue and groove boards, make sure the boards are flat and the ends even. Each board is 5-1/2 wide and 4-foot long for a total 2-boards totaling 11 in. long.
2. Use wood clamps to clamp each end of the boards.
3. When the board are together cut off the groove side of the board. Removing the groove will give the board a larger flat area.
4. After the boards are glued together, place the top and bottom cap on each side.
5. Drill three holes in each cap molding approximately 4-inch on each end and 24 in. the middle hole.
6. Fig.5 shows that the insertion of three deck screws into the plastic cap and into the tongue and grove boards and two more on each end.
7. Do this on both horizontal side.
8. Now insert the deck screws on the lateral side.
   
9. Now pick up the entire unit and place it on top of the cement wall. To secure the panel to the brick wall drill into the wood cap first and another hole into the cement. Using Tapcon polymer plated steel hex-washer-head indoor/outdoor concrete anchors 1/4 in. x 2-3/4 in. This is the very best anchoring system. For more information click on Tapcon above.
   

Fig.5 Deck screw locations

Jim never came by to show off his handiwork. So I am assuming the blind worked and he no longer had to stare at the new development that was happening near his home.  

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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved.© Copyright 2011-