Monday, May 8, 2017

G.E. Stovetop Igniter Won't stop Sparking

By Gary Boutin
Fig.1 Metal grate


Part and Supplies:
BBQ flame torch
Cotton Swabs with Wood Handles (optional)
Isopropyl Alcohol - 1 Pint (optional)
Long stick matches
Nothing (Always an option)

After a day cooking, the stove top needed to be cleaned. While washing the stove top with a wet sponge the stove top igniter repeatedly was arching. The only choice was to turn off the igniter at the electrical panel because our electrical plug is behind the stove top. When the breaker was placed in the on position, the igniter would not turn off, the only choice was to turn off the electrical breaker until the solution was solved. 

This post shows the six steps to turn the stove top igniter back on without doing any work.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the stove top metal grate that was removed for cleaning. 
Step 2: Fig.2 shows a burner cap assembly (round metal plate), that allows the gas flames in a circular patter. This must be removed to get to the igniter. 
Fig.2 Burner cap assembly
Step 3: Fig.3 shows the large surface burner that must be removed to expose the igniter.
Fig.3 Medium surface burner
Step 4: Fig.4 shows the white circular porcelain piece is the stove top igniter electrode.
Fig.4 Igniter electrode.
Step 5: Fig.5 shows the stove top with all the accessories removed, only the maintop is exposed for cleaning each electrodes. If a lot more cooking is required and time is a problem than clean each electrode using a cotton swab and very little isopropyl alcohol. Once cleaned and the water moisture removed, place all the parts on the stove. Turn on the each gas knob (knobs are on the right side of this picture) so the igniter will turn on the gas flame. 
Fig.5 Maintop assembly stainless steel
Step 6: Fig.6 shows the large stove top flame. For this stove top nothing was done. The stove igniter electrode was not turned off for one day to give the moisture a chance to dissipate. The electrical breaker was in the OFF position. Sometimes nothing needs to be done and the moisture took care of itself through the regular use of the stove top. When the electrical breaker was in the Off position the stove flames was lite using long stick matches or BBQ flame torch. After one day the kitchen electrical breaker was turned on and the igniter lite the gas flame so the stove top could be used. Non-repair finished.
Fig.6 Stove top flame




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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Sunday, April 9, 2017

How to Remove Galvanized Posts on a Mobile Home Driveway

Fig.1
Galvanized
Posts



By Gary Boutin

Tools and Supplies: 
Cement (premix)
Electrical extension lines.
Electrical tape (Black plastic)
Forged steel sledge hammer with 10-inch steel handle
Hand held metal sledge
Milwaukee Torch metal blade pack
Reciprocating Saw (Sawzall®)


Personal note: I started a new DIY Class-A Drivers License Tests blog to help truck drivers pass their exams and endorsements needed for driving position. To easily find the each test and endorsements, check out Class-A Sitemap web pages.

According to Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia; a Mobile Home is called a trailer, house trailer, static caravan, a Home that is a prefabricated and built in a factory. Then the trailer is taken to Mr. Mancini new home. Harold has called my service company for over 15 years. He lives in a beautiful mobile home park located in Hollywood, California. His home was a double-wide mobile home on permanent foundation and this time he wanted to remove the old galvanized fencing post on a mobile home driveway.

Step 1: The tools: Fig.1 shows one of the fence posts that need to be cut down. Fig.2 shows the tools that were used to remove these posts. Two sets of electrical extension (top yellow has lighted plug ends 12/3and HDX middle orange) and a (bottom) is the Dewalt reciprocating saw with a Torch metal blade. For this job I used 4-Torch metal blades as some of the post had other metals or concrete inside the fencing posts. Fig.3 shows black electrical tape used to attach each set of electrical ends together.
Fig.2 The Tools
Fig.3 Electrical tape
Step 2: Fig.4 through fig.8 shows the progression of cutting the pipe. Fig.4 shows laying the saw on its side and slowly cutting the pipe at the asphalt level. With the use of the Milwaukee Torch metal blade the time it takes to cut the post is must faster then conventional cutting blades. Fig.7 shows the post has been cut and the post is being pushed aside for disposal.
Fig.4 
Cutting # 1
Fig.5
Cutting # 2
Fig.6 
Cutting # 3
Fig.7 
Cutting # 4
Fig.8 
Cutting # 5
Step 3: Harold has grandchildren and he wanted his area by the driveway to be safe so no one would bet hurt or cut from the newly cut fence posts. The idea was to hammer the fence post sides inside the existing pipe and protect the area. Fig.9 through fig.11 hammers the post edges inside the metal pipe.
Fig.9 
Hammering #1
Fig.10  
Hammering #2
Fig.11
 Hammering #3
Step 4: Later, Harold would fill in each post with pre-mix stucco cement (fig.12) and the job would be done.
Fig.12 Cement
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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Monday, January 9, 2017

How to Repair Damaged MDF Hallway Baseboard

This Medium-density fiberboard baseboard was damaged by furniture
Fig.1 Damaged Baseboard
By Gary Boutin  File:

Tools and Supplies:
Blue painters tape
Dynaflex® 230 silicone
Kilz® oil spray primer paint 
Red stucco tape
Sand paper 120 grit
Scrapers 
Small brush
Wood glue (5 milliliters = 0.1691 ounces)

Painting can be quite fun, the furniture needs to be moved to other area to make the area available for painting. This is the reason why this MDF (Medium-density fiberboard baseboard was damage. MDF is has many uses specially in California were there is no straight wall. MDF is made of sawdust and glue and cured with pressure to form any shape needed. MDF baseboards cost is three quarter less its counterpart the wood baseboard or wood trim. 

This post shows the five steps to repair this baseboard.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows the damage to the MDF baseboards. Tape the area for repairing and painting. Fig.2 shows some of the painting tools needed to protect the area around the baseboard damage.

This picture has rug tape, masking tape and a scraper
Fig.2 Painting preparation
Step 2: Once the area is masked with painter tape, the repairs start. Look at the damage, there are three choices. The first and easiest choice is to repair the damage baseboard. The second choice is cut out a small piece and replace it with another piece of baseboard. The last choice is to remove the entire baseboard for that wall and replace the a new piece. For this project repairing was the best choice. Fig.3 shows the damage baseboard and fig.4 shows the first step is to press the baseboard against itself.
Fig.3 Damaged baseboard
Fig.4 Press together
Step 3: Fig.5 shows the Titebond® glue placed in a small glass container. Fig.6 shows to use a small brush or your fingers and apply a little amount (5 milliliters = 0.1691 ounces) of glue on the damaged area. Start to press the baseboard damage back together to form like the rest of the baseboard. 
Fig.5 Titebond Glue
Fig.6 Press against the wall
Step 4: Fig.7 shows that after the glue has dried, use caulking or paintable silicone to seal the area from moisture. Fig.8 shows a tube of Dynaflex® 230 silicone but any caulking will work for this project. Dynaflex® 230 was available from a prior job.
Fig.7 Clear Silicone
Fig.8 Dynaflex® 230 silicone
Step 5: After the caulking has dried, use 120 grit sandpaper to remove the rough edges. Fig.9 shows the next step is to seal the area with Kilz® Oil  Primer. It does not have to be an oil primer any primer will do the job. I chose Kilz® Oil spray primer because it was a left over from a prior job. Fig.10 shows the primer has dried and the final step of painting the baseboard to match.
Fig.9 
Primer
Fig.10 Spray primer



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Note: The DIY Advisor assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any jobs. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed contractor if in doubt about any steps on these posts. All names were changed to protect client's privacy. DIY Advisor. Reproduction of site content including photos without permission prohibited. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-